京夏終空
In the midst of an abundance of weak tonkatsu, I felt the need for a traditional, strong tonkatsu. When discussing tonkatsu, I tend to get passionate. However, upon further consideration, I realize that it may just be a difference in eras. Nowadays, people tend to focus on rare cuts or brand-name pork from certain regions when eating tonkatsu, a concept that was almost non-existent in the Showa era. Back then, people seemed to choose tonkatsu based on factors like the heaviness of the batter, tenderness of the meat, taste of the sauce, portion size, and price. If you were at a tonkatsu restaurant, the conversation might extend to things like the service, atmosphere, or whether they serve alcohol. When I first moved to Ikebukuro 32 years ago, the tonkatsu options were limited. I remember "Tonkatsu Daigaku" being a popular choice. There were also small tonkatsu shops with only a few counter seats in the love hotel district. I recall a flashy chain restaurant called "Tokyo Tonkatsu" opening near the current Karakan location in the north exit, but it disappeared quickly. Now, this restaurant in Okubo, not towards Okubo Station but towards Higashi-Shinjuku Station, brought back memories of "Niimura" and "Katsumi" in the Okubo area. It had been about ten years since my last visit. While I used to consume tonkatsu quite frequently until my 40s, I've cut back in recent years. But every now and then, I crave it. The interior of the restaurant is peculiar, with tables that can be seen as either two-person or four-person seats. It's a bit tricky to decide which way to face when there are only two chairs between tables. When visiting with three people, it's possible that the person sitting next to you could end up facing the opposite direction. I ordered the "Top Loin Tonkatsu Set" (1,680 yen) - as shown in the photo. It's a large, traditional tonkatsu that exudes a certain elegance. I poured the sauce over it and dug in heartily. Yes, this is it. This is what tonkatsu should be like. The lean meat, fat, batter, and sauce all come together harmoniously, making the white rice disappear quickly. There's nothing more to say. As I mentioned before, this is what tonkatsu is all about. I left satisfied. Thank you for the meal. Tonkatsu is best enjoyed with a hearty serving of sauce. Similarly, yakitori should be savored with tare sauce, and sushi with soy sauce. It seems that many people nowadays tend to lean towards salt seasoning for everything, thinking that it allows them to taste the ingredients more clearly. Salt is indeed delicious and necessary for the human body. However, it seems a bit wasteful to overlook the carefully crafted sauces, tares, and soy sauces that chefs and artisans have perfected over the years. While salt may offer a fresh and innovative way of eating, it might also be a form of ancient nostalgia. (By Kyonatsu Shuusora, 2020.9.22)