For lunch, I had the dojo nabe set, eel kabuto skewers, and eel bones. I chose miso soup with dojo. The dojo in both the nabe and miso soup had no unpleasant smell or taste, making it easy to eat. It was like eating boiled sardines. The side dishes of hijiki and pickles were surprisingly delicious. The eel bones were very tasty with a salty flavor. The eel kabuto skewers had a mild seasoning but still tasted like eel.

I really wanted to eat here, so I called around 9:00 in the morning thinking about going, and they answered saying they were open and could take a reservation. I made a reservation for the opening time at 11:00. I arrived about 15 minutes early, but they weren't open yet. They opened 5 minutes before the scheduled time, and I was the first one to enter. I ordered the Dozeu set (Dozeu hot pot, appetizers, cold tofu, 2 pieces of eel liver, rice, miso soup, pickles) and upgraded the miso soup to Dozeu (for an extra 100 yen). My partner ordered the Yanagawa bowl (boneless) and we also got some beer. It was delicious and amazing. It felt luxurious having this meal in the middle of the day. The Dozeu hot pot was cooked with sweet and savory broth, and we added a lot of green onions. It was so good. The eel liver was also delicious, and the rice was satisfying. We were full and satisfied. Thank you for the wonderful meal.

I feel the history. Right near Ryogoku Bridge. I was a little nervous because it was my first time having loach hot pot. The waitress kindly taught me about it. I enjoyed it with a beer. The taste and atmosphere were great. I felt like a true Edo person while enjoying it. It was fun to stroll around after crossing Ryogoku Bridge.

We managed to get through this summer, which broke the record for the hottest day, but we still have about half a month of lingering heat to endure. Tonight, we chose dojo as our meal. We had a beginner with us, so we started with deboning the fish. Eating dojo while sitting on the wooden floor is quite enjoyable. The taste was a bit stronger (salty) than what we usually get from our regular spot, Iida-ya. The other dishes were delicious. Maybe next time we'll try eel for lunch.

In the old days, there was a stylish udon shop near Takahashi, where they used to fan themselves with a folding fan under the drooping willow branches, enjoying the summer heat with a glass of hot sake. However, after the earthquake, the shop closed down, and another famous restaurant disappeared. A friend of mine wanted to try some dojo fish at a less crowded restaurant for inbound tourists, so we went there. The summer dojo fish was thin and easy to eat, while the winter ones were bigger but tougher. The rising costs of ingredients seem to have affected the dojo fish as well, as they no longer have the same hearty flavor as before. Nevertheless, we enjoyed our meal.

We visited with a party of 6 for a reception. The small tatami room felt a bit cramped. They aim to reach 100 years of establishment, and you could feel the history with the family tree displayed. We had carp sashimi and grilled eel rice bowl. The carp sashimi was marinated in vinegar miso, with a good texture and no fishy smell. The grilled eel was plump and the sauce was not too sweet, very delicious.

Komagata Dozeu, Iidaya, and Dojouyasai have been experienced before. I went to Iidaya after several years and felt that the old charm was somewhat lost. It had a nice atmosphere, so I searched for a place where I could eat loaches and found Kikyoya. The restaurant was smaller than I expected, but had a very cozy atmosphere. I ordered a meal set with a helmet and loach dishes. I paid extra for miso soup and chose loach soup. The maru-nabe was delicious, and the highlight was definitely the loach soup. It was incredibly tasty with 5-6 large loaches providing a satisfying meal. The maru-nabe had plenty of loaches and the broth was not too sweet, making it delicious. Everything was tasty and I left feeling full. The family-run restaurant had a great atmosphere. It was a wonderful place to dine.

I wanted to eat dojo nabe so I went to Ryogoku. The restaurant is located a short walk from the JR station and is quite small. I chose the boneless nabe. In the summer, it comes with egg. The abundance of green onions and the chewy texture of the egg were delicious. There was no fishy smell, and the taste was enhanced by the sharp soy sauce flavor. For dessert, I had unagi don. It was also delicious.

After going through the pandemic, I visited a friend for the first time in four years. When you enter the restaurant, you can see dozeu (fermented loach) in barrels. It is a raised tatami room. In Tokyo, the specialized dozeu restaurants are Iida-ya in Asakusa and Kikyoya in Ryogoku, following the passing of the late Takahashi Iseki. Located at the foot of Ryogoku Bridge, it is difficult to enter on the 1st, 5th, and 9th days as there is also the Tokyo Grand Sumo Tournament. Prices have been rising due to inflation, but this place is still affordable thanks to the efforts of the fourth generation family management.

I, born in Kansai, have never eaten "dozeu" before and when I invited my partner, they declined. So, I went alone to Kikyo-ya in Ryogoku for my first try of "dozeu". The restaurant is located near Ryogoku Bridge by the Sumida River, a bit of a walk from the station. The entrance looks small, but the restaurant has depth like a true eel establishment. Besides "dozeu", they also had "carp characters" on the menu, another first for me. I started with a Kirin beer to quench my thirst, then tried the "carp sashimi" for 800 yen, with a crunchy texture and delicious taste. Next, I had the grilled eel (upper portion) for 2,200 yen, which was reasonably sized and satisfying considering the current high eel prices. I was unsure about the "dozeu", but the landlady kindly suggested trying the bones as well. I chose the marunabe style with plenty of leeks, and after simmering, the rich flavor of the dozeu broth combined with the sweet leeks was delightful. The dozeu had a slightly bone-in texture, but the flesh was tender and easy to eat. Enjoying dozeu hot pot in Ryogoku with some drinks felt like a true Edokko experience, and I had a great time.

Located on the east side of Ryogokubashi Bridge, this restaurant was visited for a casual lunchtime drink after a failed attempt at a nearby wild boar hot pot restaurant. Despite the first floor being fully occupied, we were quickly seated at a simple table with a makeshift divider as another group was leaving. We ordered a hot sake for 450 yen and opted for the regular menu items instead of the lunch menu, choosing the "dojou nabe" for 1400 yen and the "carp sashimi" for 800 yen. While waiting, we looked at photos of the second to fifth generation owners who have run the restaurant since its establishment in 1933. Our hot sake arrived within 4 minutes, followed shortly by the carp sashimi. We chose the vinegar miso sauce for the sashimi and enjoyed it with some hiziki seaweed as a side dish. The dojou nabe was placed on the table with a portable stove, and we were guided on when it was ready to eat by the staff. We enjoyed the rich flavor of the dojou nabe, including the pleasure of picking the bones of the round mud loach. Despite not feeling completely full, we decided to skip ordering more hot sake and paid our bill promptly using a QR code, receiving a promise of points back for the Sumida Ward campaign and a discount coupon for cash payment on our next visit.

The Dozeu hot pot, Maru hot pot for 1400 yen, Boneless hot pot for 1500 yen, and Yanagawa hot pot for 1500 yen were delicious. I also ordered rice for 200 yen, which can be made into porridge. It's not just about the taste, but the value of eating as a food culture. For lunch, you can enjoy the Yanagawa bowl for 1200 yen.

Established in the 8th year of the Showa era, this restaurant is famous for its "Doseu Nabe" hot pot. This visit was specifically for the eel dish. Among Tokyo restaurants, their eel dishes are relatively affordable. The premium eel dish costs 4400 yen, the special premium is 3300 yen, and the cheapest eel bowl is a lunch special at 1400 yen. While waiting for the main dish, we enjoyed their specialty dishes like rolled omelette, grilled turnips, and grilled eel liver. The highlight was the premium eel dish, which came with eel liver. The thick, large piece of grilled eel covered the rice in the bowl. The aroma was excellent, and the sauce, with a strong and slightly spicy flavor typical of Tokyo, lacked sweetness, which suited our taste. The fluffy eel meat was incredibly delicious. We prefer the steamed eel style popular in the Kanto region, but this eel dish was still very tasty. A truly delicious eel dish.

I found the Kikyoya restaurant in Ryogoku while looking for places where I could use the digital tickets I purchased for the Go To Eat campaign in Tokyo, which is valid until January 25th. I made a reservation and went to eat there. We started with a hotpot with loaches and a mix of bones, with loach eggs inside. First we ate it as it was, then added some Sansho pepper, and finished with shichimi spice. We quickly had two glasses of draft beer. Next, we enjoyed grilled eel liver and grilled eel while sipping on lemon sour. We also had grilled loach with wasabi soy sauce. Since we still had some room in our stomachs, we finished with sweet and sour stewed catfish (be careful of the bones). It was a delicious meal!

I visited the traditional restaurant "Kikyoya" located near the west exit of JR Ryogoku Station, about a 5-minute walk south along the river. Established in 1933, this family-run restaurant exudes a nostalgic charm of the old town. The interior is lively and narrow, with tatami seating on both the first and second floors, allowing for a relaxed dining experience. The walls are adorned with sumo rankings from the era of Futabayama. The menu features a variety of river fish dishes, such as grilled and simmered eel, carp dishes, and unique dojou (loach) cuisine. The dojou dishes include Yanagawa bowl, dojou hot pot, and dojou soup. The Yanagawa bowl and dojou hot pot, both available with or without bones, are priced at 1,100 yen each, while the dojou soup costs 300 yen. I tried the dojou hot pot, which is prepared by simmering loaches that have been soaked in sake to remove the earthy taste, along with burdock in an iron pot. The flavors were enhanced by the savory broth and the fluffy egg topping. The loaches were tender and the crunchy texture of the burdock complemented them perfectly. Although delicious, the portion was small, so I also ordered the Yanagawa hot pot without bones. The boneless dojou in egg broth was light and flavorful, showcasing the restaurant's expertise. I have edited a video of the dishes I enjoyed, which you can watch around the 3:00 mark. [Link to the video]

The nearest station is JR Ryogoku Station, a 4-minute walk away. I had heard about this place in magazines for a long time, but this was my first visit. I went for lunch and chose the Yanagawa donburi (large) set meal for 1,200 yen. After sitting in the tatami room, the Yanagawa donburi, miso soup, hijiki side dish, and pickles were served in about 10 minutes. The Yanagawa donburi had a soft and flavorful egg topping that wrapped around the fluffy loach and rice, making it easy to eat. The crunchy burdock added a nice touch and enhanced the flavor of the loach. It was a satisfying lunch option with plenty of loach. I'm curious about the winter limited menu of raw fish hot pot, so I'd like to visit again on a winter night. Thank you for the meal.

For lunch on this day, I went to Ryogoku in Sumida Ward. I visited a restaurant called "Kikyoya" located on the east side of Ryogoku Bridge, facing the Keiyo Highway. I entered through a curtain with "Dozeu" written in white on a navy blue background and took off my shoes at the entrance. I was seated in a narrow raised tatami area at the back of the first floor, with no other customers present. I ordered the "Yanagawa Don (boneless)" lunch set which was served after a short wait. The set included Yanagawa Don, miso soup, pickles, and simmered hijiki seaweed. There were condiments on the table, including sansho pepper and shichimi spice blend. I tried the Yanagawa Don first without any seasoning, then added some sansho pepper and shichimi. It was incredibly delicious. The miso soup was hot and tasty. The price of 1200 yen felt reasonable for the quality and quantity of food. After the meal, I also tried the yuzu sherbet for 300 yen, which was refreshing with a nice yuzu fragrance. The restaurant had a traditional atmosphere with many sumo-related decorations, but it was mentioned that active sumo wrestlers rarely visit due to the limited seating. The restaurant, established in 1933, is currently run by the 3rd and 4th generation. Personally, I love dojou (loach) and would like to try their dojou hot pot next time.

In winter, I felt like eating hot pot and visited a restaurant with my colleagues. We enjoyed dojou maru nabe (loach hot pot), hone nuki nabe (boneless hot pot) with carp sashimi, and catfish hot pot. The maru nabe had a lot of small bones, making it difficult to eat fish like dried sardines and whole sweetfish. The hone nuki nabe is recommended. The catfish had no strong taste and was delicious. Carp sashimi was served with hot mustard miso, providing a crunchy texture. It's recommended to try these rare delicacies when visiting Tokyo.

Near my home, there is an old-established river fish cuisine restaurant. It will be celebrating its 90th anniversary next year. The interior of the restaurant is filled with many autographs of celebrities. When I visited on a weekday at 11:05, right after the opening, there was only one elderly couple as the first customers. There are 5 tables with seating for 4 in the tatami room. I was seated at a table near the entrance. There was no background music, just the soothing sound of water flowing. The walls were adorned with menus, ranking lists, autographs of celebrities, newspaper articles, and more. Lunch Set C: Yanagawa Don (boneless) with miso soup, small side dishes, and pickles. The Yanagawa Don was delicious, but there were too many burdocks in the egg bowl, which lacked presence when eaten. It was at a level where you could only notice it if you focused really hard... it didn't stand out. Maybe it would have been better as a hot pot dish... The miso soup with seaweed and green onions, simmered hijiki seaweed, pickled radish with perilla leaves were all delicious!

There is a specialty shop for river fish in both countries, located near the bridge that connects Kameido area to Akihabara. Every time I pass by, I am greeted by a pleasant aroma, and the exterior atmosphere is very nice. I have always wanted to visit someday. This is the essence of Ryogoku! When you enter the shop, you will find an atmosphere that meets your expectations! The polite and traditional Japanese-style tatami seating on the first and second floors. I love this kind of shop atmosphere. Oh, I'm glad I came. Comfort is important. The place was bustling with local regular customers, from salarymen to the elderly. At the entrance, there is a black basket commonly seen in eel shops with water flowing from the top. They have a variety of river fish such as loach, eel, and catfish. Their main focus is loach, but you can also enjoy eel, carp, and catfish. This kind of proper river fish shop is quite rare in Tokyo. Of course, I had eel. Since it was my first time, I opted for the affordable eel bowl lunch. Today's eel is from Mikawa Isshiki. ▶︎Ordered item: Eel Bowl 1400 yen It arrived in about 10 minutes. It consists of 4 pieces of different parts of the eel. It's about a quarter of a whole eel. The portion might be a bit small haha. The sauce has soaked well, and the steaming is light, giving it a firm texture. When I tried it, oh! They use good quality eel! You can tell the flesh is firm. The flesh is plump, piping hot inside, and melts in your mouth when you chew. The skin is lightly grilled, lacking a bit of char but has a pleasant aroma. The fat coating is just right, with a clean and refreshing umami without being too heavy. Although there is no scent, it is good quality fat. The sauce is slightly thick and sweet, with a unique richness that makes the rice go down smoothly. It may be too strong for some, but it was perfect for me, who likes strong flavors. There is not as much sauce on the eel as it appears, and the taste of the eel is still evident in a balanced way. The rice is piping hot, and with plenty of sauce, you can easily eat even with less eel haha. Sometimes the rice and eel can be cold, but they are well-prepared here. Although the eel portion is a bit small, considering the quality, I think this amount is reasonable. Even with a lunch eel bowl, I didn't feel like they were cutting corners. Of course, I think the loach must be the real deal, so it also raises expectations. And to top it off, they even gave me a 100 yen discount coupon on my way out! Thank you for the meal!