蓼喰人
On a Saturday afternoon, I visited a long-established soba restaurant along the brick street in Shinbashi, which is also a member of the "Kibotsu-kai." When I entered the restaurant around 1:30 pm, half of the tables were still occupied. I chose a table for two near the right side. I started with a beer (Akahoshi medium bottle) and ordered two dishes from the "seasonal specials." "Boiled edamame": small edamame beans that were boiled until tender with salt sprinkled on top. They were delicious even when hot, but they became even sweeter as they cooled down. "Fried young ayu fish": four young ayu fish of a good size, fried with a thicker batter typical of a soba restaurant rather than the thin coating seen in high-end tempura restaurants. They were served with salt for dipping, and you could enjoy the texture of the head, bones, and the slight bitterness of the intestines, as well as the umami of the batter. All of this for 800 yen seemed like a good deal. My beer ran out quickly, so I ordered a highball. Although the menu listed it as "Seabass Whiskey Soda," it was served in a large glass without lemon, which I appreciated. For another dish, I ordered "Duck meatballs." These were small duck meatballs arranged in a bowl with a sweet and savory sauce and sprinkled with white spring onions. They had a chewy texture from the cartilage and were packed with umami, with a hint of gaminess. They became even more flavorful when dipped in seven-spice powder. I ordered the classic "Otokoyama" sake served at room temperature. The sake set with a white porcelain sake flask and cups had a touch of Edo-style sophistication. Sipping on it slowly, I savored the rich taste. As it approached 2 pm, I thought the customers were starting to leave, but then three or four groups, including inbound tourists, started coming in, enjoying not only meals but also sake and appetizers in the traditional "soba-zen" style, which was a pleasant sight. However, it was time for me to have some soba. It had been a while, so I ordered the basic "mori" set. The set came on a lacquered square tray, and when I poured a small amount of dipping sauce from the sake flask and tasted it, I found it slightly dry yet well-balanced with a clean flavor. The soba noodles were thin machine-made noodles, but the crucial step of kneading the dough and other processes seemed to be done by hand, resulting in a satisfyingly firm texture preferred by locals in Edo. If you slurped the noodles without soaking them too much in the sauce, you could enjoy the aroma and refreshing taste. Mixing the leftover dipping sauce from the duck meatballs with the soba dipping sauce was also interesting. Even with the 750 yen "mori" set, you got freshly grated hon-wasabi, and the green onions were carefully selected, showing the pride of a long-established restaurant. The soba-yu (hot soba water) was kept in its natural state, unchanged by any additives even at this late hour, a testament to their diligent work in changing the boiling water frequently. It was a comfortable and enjoyable time, just as I had hoped. The bill came to slightly over 5,000 yen this time, but considering the satisfaction level, it was worth it. The friendly attitude of the proprietress also left a good impression. In the midst of new soba restaurants emerging, this establishment has maintained a strong presence. While it may not cater to picky soba enthusiasts, it is a perfect spot for lovers of Edo-style soba restaurants. I look forward to visiting regularly in search of the reliable "soba-ya sake" experience.