ジェームズオオクボ
Iida @ Kyoto City ~ Touching New Burdock
Today, I was fortunate to receive a precious invitation from a friend I am indebted to, to study Japanese cuisine on a valuable seat, in the season when the leaves of the grass and trees flourish, during the period of "Kosan." I am grateful. There are many members of Japanese restaurants and inns, so it is a very valuable opportunity for studying. Since notes were not allowed, I am writing this review based on memory, so please forgive any details.
It started with a fragrant perilla tea. The appetizer was a light edamame tofu, topped with abalone and a jellied dashi made from the pods of edamame. The texture of the kudzu used to solidify it, along with the scent of edamame, was excellent. The carp in the soup was sliced and rolled, then coated with kudzu and fried. According to my friend, the bonito flakes used in the soup were made from bloodless dried bonito, using only the core part. This time, it had a thick texture. The soup bowl used was from a Kyoto artist from the Taisho era, and its condition was superb. It will be sent for repairs when this period of May ends and will return in April. There are fewer artisans now, so it seems to be a nerve-wracking situation.
Next was the sashimi, which was carefully deboned and had a chewy texture. It was served with wasabi and soy sauce. The skipjack tuna was smoked with Kyoto green tea. The skipjack tuna had a moderate amount of fat. It was sandwiched with pounded wild garlic leaves. On top, there was plenty of myoga (if I remember correctly) as a condiment. It was served in a bowl from the fifth generation of Raku.
The sea bream dumpling contained boiled butterbur instead of soy sauce. It also had sweetly cooked inch beans and was beautifully rolled! The string of iris grass wrapped around the dumpling was rolled very beautifully at intervals of just 1 cm, or maybe even a little shorter. I don't think the head chef rolled it, but if it was done by an apprentice, it's even more amazing.
The grilled sweetfish still had four small young sweetfish lined up like carp streamers. It had a fragrant aroma and a soft texture with a hint of bitterness. This dish seems to be suitable for the period of "Kosan." The tade vinegar was also fragrant and unforgettable. It was so delicious that I wanted to drink it.
In the season when the leaves of the grass and trees flourish, it seems to be the period of "Kosan." The Hachiman roll was a dish that the chef decided to master after thinking that the Hachiman roll wasn't that delicious during his eel training days. The way it was rolled was explained to have been done in a way that resembled a decorative sword (weapon) in line with the Boys' Festival in May. It started with the crispy texture of the skin, transitioning to the aroma of eel, and then to burdock. The new burdock from a producer in Tokushima had a melting texture, making the eel and burdock have the same texture, resulting in a melting sensation. I have never had a Hachiman roll like this before, and it was truly moving. I have had a vegetarian dish that used burdock as a substitute for eel, but this was a wonderful dish.
The turtle jelly and sea urchin combination had a rich flavor. The wagyu beef flower pepper hot pot with Kyoto flower pepper and bracken dashi was transformed into a tamago kake gohan (egg over rice). It was served with spicy pickled water eggplant and Hokkaido rice.
The yatsuhashi jelly with mint caramel ice cream had a light texture, and it was a wonderful dish created by the aesthetic eye, sense, and refined technique of Mr. Shinichi Iida. By persevering with quality over quantity, it seems that there is even more quality to be achieved. It was a memorable restaurant where the chef's determination to master his craft resulted in outstanding dishes. In a time when Japanese restaurants and sushi restaurants often rely on high-quality ingredients to create easily understandable dishes, I feel that I had a wonderful experience.