kuroda
About a 10-minute drive from Kabutoyama Station on the Kyoto Tango Railway, located on a hill in Kumihamacho, Kyoto Tandokoro, adjacent to the Central Kitchen of Waku Den, is a restaurant. My wife and I stopped by for lunch on our way to a hotel near Kumihamawan to enjoy a slightly luxurious vacation. Waku Den operates as a Kyoto cuisine and Kaiseki restaurant, with the "Kodaiji Waku Den", as well as a slightly lower-priced "Muromachi Waku Den" and the "Kyoto Waku Den" located at Kyoto Station. They also sell bento boxes, Japanese sweets, and food products at department stores as souvenirs. Although it is now one of the famous traditional Japanese restaurants in Kyoto, its origins date back to 1870 (Meiji 3) when it opened as an inn in Mineyama, present-day Kyoto Tango City. In 1982 (Showa 57), it relocated from Mineyama to the heart of Kyoto. Since then, they have steadily expanded their business with restaurants and shops such as a tea confectionery shop called "Mushiya Shinai" and a retail store called "Omotesen". However, in Kyoto, where you cannot claim to be a long-established store in just 100 years, it is still considered a new and upcoming restaurant. In 2017, Waku Den opened "Waku Den no Mori" in Kyoto Tango City, a facility with an art museum, restaurant, and other attractions, along with a central kitchen. When you step onto the spacious grounds, the first thing you see is the "House in the Forest - Yoshitaka Anno Museum", located deep in the grove. The building, with its innovative design, stands out against the exposed concrete exterior. Inside the building, the soft watercolor paintings of landscapes from around the world, as well as the works of Yoshitaka Anno, who passed away at the end of last year (December 2020), are exhibited, along with various special exhibitions. In addition, design notes by Tadao Ando are also preserved. Further into the forest, past the well-maintained lawn, is the "Workshop Restaurant & Shop Wakuden MORI", which uses ingredients harvested from the forest and Wakuden. The interior, with large windows that give the illusion of being surrounded by the greenery of the forest and lawn, is a chic and clean space with a warm wooden feel. Near the entrance is a museum shop, followed by a shop with Wakuden products, and further inside is the restaurant, with large tables lined up. The menu consists of slightly casual dishes and desserts, and due to its location, it has a style that sets it apart from other stores. I ordered the "Tango Fish and Tango Vegetable Black Sushi" (1,900 yen), while my wife ordered the "Natural Sea Bream and Sea Bream Roe Tango Vegetable Curry" (1,600 yen). Each dish was served without much wait. The "Tango Fish and Tango Vegetable Black Sushi" was served in a vessel shaped like a split bamboo tube, with black sushi mixed with various vegetables and topped with tuna sashimi. The slightly blackish vinegar rice had a strong acidity but no sharpness typical of black vinegar. The vegetables, presumably from Tango, retained their texture and freshness. The fish, which was tuna at this time of year, was it medium fatty tuna? It had a sweetness of fat, indicating its high quality. This black sushi is a specialty of Waku Den, and in a traditional Japanese restaurant, it would use a refined sea bream marinated in kelp, but this one has a slightly wild finish. The miso soup also had plenty of ingredients, and it had a pleasant aroma of burdock. Sprinkle the dried wakame on the table, and it will add an even richer flavor. The "Natural Sea Bream and Sea Bream Roe Tango Vegetable Curry" (1,600 yen) was a creamy curry made with natural sea bream and coconut. Adding the sweet miso paste enhanced the rich flavor. On the table were dried wakame, sansho soy sauce, sansho oil, and various salts, allowing for flavor variations by adding a little to each dish. The sansho oil also goes well with the Thai-style curry.