サカキシンイチロウ
In the morning, I decided to try the "En" restaurant for dashi over tea-soaked rice. It's located in a commercial building attached to Shinjuku Station, in the basement. The place is always bustling with women customers. They open early in the morning, offering affordable tea-soaked rice sets during breakfast hours. In the past, there used to be several eateries on this floor that opened early in the morning, like a Los Angeles pie shop, a chopped salad restaurant, and a tonkatsu restaurant, but now it's just this place that opens in the morning. The restaurant has an open layout with counter seats separated by shoulder-height wooden fences, creating a cozy and calming atmosphere. There is a small shop selling onigiri, chicken karaage, and side dishes next to the entrance, which surprisingly seems to be popular. You order your food via a ticket machine, hand the ticket to the staff, then sit and wait for your food. I ordered the grilled salmon and sesame seaweed tea-soaked rice set with an additional pickled plum. There is only one staff member in the restaurant, serving three groups of five customers. The food takes a bit of time to arrive. The dish comes in a large bowl with rice, grilled salmon, sesame seaweed, chopped nori, and shiso leaves. It also includes simmered hijiki, salted cucumber, and a generous amount of dashi in a white ceramic pot. The restaurant uses real dishes instead of plastic ones, which is a nice touch. The dashi is refillable, which is a nice bonus. The restaurant started as a food retail store called "Nihon no Gochisou En," offering condiments, dashi, and rice accompaniments, which is why they offer tastings like this. The tea-soaked rice specialty stores were popular for a while, but most of them closed down, leaving only a few chains like this one. This place's business model seems strong due to its combination of retail and takeout options. The salted salmon on top of the rice is a bit cold and seems to be directly from a vacuum pack, which is a bit disappointing. However, when you pour the dashi over it, it warms up and becomes more enjoyable. The dashi has a rich umami flavor, although the acidity is milder now compared to before. I crumble the salmon and add some sesame seaweed to enhance the flavor. The large pickled plum I ordered still has its pit, so I have to tear it apart and place it on top of the rice to enjoy the added acidity in the dashi. The dish is served in a large bowl, making it a bit challenging to eat without leaning in, but it's a thoughtful touch for the mainly female clientele. Overall, it's a satisfying breakfast experience.