旅浪漫
I arrived at Rebun Island on a romantic journey by taking the Heartland Ferry. On this day, I departed from Wakkanai Port at 6:55 a.m. and arrived at Rishiri Island's Oshidomari Port at 8:35 a.m. After touring Rishiri Island, I boarded the ferry again from Oshidomari Port at 3:50 p.m. and arrived at Kafuka Port on Rebun Island at 4:35 p.m. There were fewer than 10 passengers on board. This is my third visit to Rebun Island, after more than 20 years. However, it is my first time visiting in the middle of winter. The owner of the pension where I would be staying, called U-Nee, was waiting for me at the ferry terminal with a board with my name on it. He kindly drove me to the pension located on a hill in his van. The three-story building was a beautiful shade of blue. His wife greeted me at the entrance. My room was a twin room with a bathroom on the second floor, priced at 7,560 yen per night including two meals. It was a reasonable price for a business plan stay. Many hotels in Hokkaido are closed for winter until March, so I was grateful to be accommodated so early in the new year. I must admit, I may have been the only fool to visit a remote island for sightseeing in such a season (laughs). The room was equipped with a kerosene fan heater, TV, refrigerator, and I could relax comfortably. At 6 p.m., I went down to the dining area on the first floor for dinner. It was a spacious room that could accommodate around 40 people. Next to the entrance, there were handmade dolls and decorations made by the owner's 96-year-old mother on display. Soft background music was playing inside. When I sat down, some dishes were already set up, including boiled octopus, sashimi of local shellfish and red flatfish, simmered red flatfish, chicken, radish side dish, octopus, squid, and tobikko salad, homemade gratin, salad, and a tangerine. It was quite a luxurious lineup for a business plan! The owner's wife asked me if I wanted to try some fresh sea cucumber she received from a fisherman acquaintance, and I gladly accepted. I also ordered a bottle of beer. The translucent boiled octopus warmed me up. The octopus turned white and shrunk when heated. Although it seemed to be frozen, it was delicious, with a concentrated flavor. The other dishes had a homely taste, and I enjoyed them with a hot sake that I ordered. The freshly caught sea cucumber was quite tough, but it was a perfect accompaniment to the alcohol. The owner's wife kept me company and made the meal even more enjoyable. It was a delightful experience. The U-Nee pension has been run by the owner's wife alone since 1990. The retired husband now helps with transportation and shopping. They also provide a shuttle service to the nearby Usuyuki Onsen hot spring, with discount coupons available. I had second helpings of the delicious rice served in a traditional wooden tub without hesitation. The next morning's breakfast consisted of grilled silver cod, grilled eggplant, natto, seaweed, sautéed burdock root, spinach, rolled kelp, pickled plum, miso soup with mushrooms and tofu, and rice. The seaweed was locally made by a fisherman and dried rock seaweed. The local milk was also delicious. I thoroughly enjoyed the luxurious breakfast served in the wooden tub. The U-Nee pension is popular and often fully booked during peak season. Despite having to give up sightseeing at Cape Sukoton due to ferry schedules, I left Rebun Island on the morning ferry. I remembered the time when I camped by Lake Kussharo and bathed in the now-vanished Funadomari hot spring. Thank you for the wonderful memories.