kinako-anko
On May 27, 2022, I suddenly decided to upload on Instagram about my spring excursion to Kyoto, where I enjoyed the "Ao-momiji" (green maple leaves) at Rurikoin Temple. About half a year ago, I had enjoyed the vibrant autumn leaves reflecting on the writing desk on the second floor of the study hall, and the green maple leaves were equally wonderful. After visiting Rurikoin Temple, I took a 5-minute walk to the Yase Cable Hiei Station and strolled through the Yase Momiji Path, enjoying a forest bath. While walking, I made a lunch reservation over the phone and then took the Eizan Electric Railway to get off at Shugakuin Station, three stops away. After a 5-minute walk, I arrived right on time for my reservation at "Yamabana Heihachi Teahouse," a long-established ryotei in the northern part of Kyoto with a history dating back nearly 450 years, originating as a roadside teahouse on the Wakasa Kaido during the era when Oda Nobunaga was active. Passing through the Kigyu-mon gate, I entered a different world, with an atmosphere of lush greenery in the approximately 600-tsubo Japanese garden, which was truly amazing. I was guided to a small room in the lodging building, where I enjoyed the following:
- Kirin Lager Beer in a bottle for 880 yen
- Lunch Kaiseki for 8,800 yen
- Mugitoro Manju (steamed bun with barley and yam)
- Sansai and shimeji mushrooms ohitashi (boiled dish)
- Tai (sea bream) kosode sushi
- Tori no matsukaze (chicken dish)
- Mame no mochikoshiage (deep-fried mochi with beans)
- Satsuma-imo no mitsuni (sweet potato simmered in honey)
- Suimono (clear soup) with tororo tofu, shiitake mushroom, and white wood ear fungus
- Yakimono (grilled dish) with salmon, vinegar lotus root, and karabuki
- Agemono (fried dish) with grilled sea bass, shishito pepper, shiitake mushroom, and small eggplant
- Sunomono (vinegared dish) with shirataki noodles, sasakaki burdock, and renkon and edamame in white vinegar
- Gohan (rice) with barley rice and tororo soup
- Koubutsu (pickles)
- Mizumono (dessert) with white wine jelly of kiwi, orange, strawberry, and pomegranate juice
There were five options available for lunch, ranging from the 3,850 yen "Mugitoro Zenzai" to the 8,800 yen "Lunch Kaiseki," and I opted for the most luxurious choice of the "Lunch Kaiseki." The 6-tatami room was equipped with a large table and chair seating, which was convenient for elderly people with mobility issues. From the glass window, I could see the Takano River flowing in front of Rurikoin Temple, and I could spot a cormorant resting its wings in the murmuring river, possibly flying in from Lake Biwa. Young staff members in kimono brought the dishes to the small room promptly, and I also received a courteous greeting from the head proprietress and the proprietress. First, I was served tea and the "Mugitoro Manju," a specialty of the teahouse. The steamed bun made in honor of the teahouse's famous "Barley Rice Tororo Soup" was filled with a refreshing sweet red bean paste made from domestic azuki beans and wrapped in a thin skin containing yam. It had a single roasted barley grain on top, and it was so small that I finished it in one bite. I wish I had bought some as a souvenir! Soon after, the "Hassun" (starter) and a cold bottle of beer arrived. The seasonal fish and seasonal vegetables-based lunch-only Kaiseki meal consisted of eight dishes, including the famous "Barley Rice Tororo Soup" and a dessert. It was a heartwarming and comforting meal, not the dazzling Kyoto cuisine, with a traditional arrangement. The teahouse's specialty "Barley Rice Tororo Soup" has been said to have been served by the first Heihachi since the teahouse's founding. Travelers passing through the Wakasa Kaido (commonly known as the Mackerel Highway) would take a brief rest at this teahouse one mile from the capital, then fortify themselves with the "Barley Rice Tororo Soup" before leaving Kyoto. The high-quality Tanba-grown tsukune yam was meticulously grated in a large mortar about 50 cm in diameter, using a secret broth made from Hokkaido Rebun Island's natural Rishiri kombu and Kagoshima's Makurazaki-sourced dried bonito flakes. The more it was stretched with this broth, the finer the texture became, making it even smoother and more sticky. The slightly whitish...