kinako-anko
On October 9, 2021, the second part of the entertainment tour for my friend in Tokyo took us to Koka City, Shiga Prefecture, where we enjoyed "matsutake mushroom hunting" and all-you-can-eat "sukiyaki with Omi beef and matsutake mushrooms." We returned to Osaka at 4 pm and dropped off my friend at the hotel. But it didn't end there; we continued with part three. Three of us got off at Abeno Station on the Osaka Metro Tanimachi Line around 6 pm and walked 800m west to reach a ryotei (traditional Japanese restaurant) called "Taiyoshi Hyakuban" in Tobita Shinchi, Nishinari Ward. The two-story wooden building lined with red lanterns is a historical structure registered as a tangible cultural property of Japan. The name "Hyakuban" signifies the highest rank in the red-light district, and the building, resembling the Yomeimon Gate of Nikko Toshogu Shrine, features a sleeping cat at the entrance of the reception room and flamboyant Momoyama-style decorations, preserving the lively atmosphere of Osaka's entertainment district. From December, the Fuji TV series "Demon Slayer: Entertainment District Arc" will be aired, and the ambiance reminded us of that, making us feel excited.
We were led to a spacious tatami room on the second floor and enjoyed a draft beer for 530 yen, a set menu with appetizers and sashimi for 1000 yen, and a pot dish (bonito broth) for 3000 yen per person, including chicken, pork, shrimp, scallops, clams, grilled conger eel, white fish, salmon, and vegetables. We started with a toast with beer and enjoyed the appetizers, but the sashimi, consisting of sea bream and tuna, seemed not very fresh, so I left it to my friend who enjoys raw fish. The pot dish began with me putting the seafood and meat from two large plates into the bonito broth pot. However, after the all-you-can-eat sukiyaki with Omi beef and matsutake mushrooms for lunch, we couldn't eat much more by evening, so we had to leave some food unconsumed. After an hour, we left the restaurant and walked back the same way, heading north for 1.5 km, passing through Tobita Shinchi, Tobita Hondori Shopping Street, Janjan Yokocho, and Tsutenkaku Hondori Shopping Street, before heading back home on the Sakaisuji Line from Ebisucho Station. The area still retains the atmosphere of Osaka's past, and "Tobita Shinchi" is Japan's largest red-light district built in the Taisho era. Although it became a ryotei district after the enforcement of the Anti-Prostitution Law in 1958 under the name "Tobita Ryotei Association," the establishments still maintain the appearance of brothels with young women sitting at brightly lit "decoration windows" and older women luring customers, just like in the past. Many establishments, although labeled as ryotei, continue to operate as before 1958, evading the law by turning into ryotei and engaging in free romantic relationships between customers and waitresses. It was shocking to see such a place that seemed like a time slip into the digital age. The adjacent streets, Zoo Mae Ichiban Street and Niban Street, are lined with small izakayas, karaoke bars, and pubs in the "Tobita Hondori Shopping Street" arcade, where homeless people lie on cardboard, and intoxicated men and women in flashy outfits stagger around, creating a lawless area. The vicinity around Tsutenkaku Tower is well-maintained to cater to inbound tourists, but further south, passing under the elevated tracks of the JR Loop Line and crossing the main street, requires courage to explore. This review turned out to be more exciting, and perhaps it was suitable for the 4800 commemoration (laughs). Thank you for the meal! (●^o^●)