船井香緒里(フードライターKaorin)
OPEN on August 29, 2022 (Blowfish Day)! The theme of the new 6th store of the "Osaka Blowfish Association" and "Osaka Tiger Blowfish Association" group is "grilled blowfish". While there are places that serve blowfish in hot pot or sashimi style, a restaurant specializing in grilled blowfish is quite rare. Unlike the "Osaka Tiger Blowfish Association," which is a completely exclusive and referral-based membership, this new store allows anyone to enter by registering upon arrival, aiming to introduce the deep world of blowfish to the general public. The restaurant offers a unique experience of grilled blowfish, dividing the blowfish into nearly 15 different parts. Each part is grilled on a net like barbecue style! Starting with a beer to quench the thirst... We decided to try the course priced at 8,900 yen (9,790 yen including tax) on this day (courses range from around 6,000 yen excluding tax to 3 types). The blowfish on this day was a 3kg fish from Karatsu, Saga.
First, we had the appetizer, blowfish soup with blowfish "eyelids" inside, a part we had never heard of. When we took a bite, the texture was chewy and enjoyable, with a slightly spicy soup base warming our bodies. Next was the boiled blowfish skin with freshly made homemade ponzu sauce. The ponzu sauce had a deep flavor with a rounded acidity and citrus aroma that was irresistible.
Then, we tried the blowfish sashimi [upper body], with the slightly caramelized flesh being glossy and luscious. As we chewed, a subtle sweetness spread throughout, complemented by the mellow acidity of the ponzu sauce, enhancing the richness of the flesh. Now, the main dishes made their appearance.
The first grilled blowfish dish was [flesh skin and tootou body]. The seasoning included garlic, salt, pepper, and shichimi-togarashi. The blowfish is covered in three layers of skin. The innermost layer, "flesh skin," had a good bite and a deep umami flavor that slowly unfolded. The following crumbly texture was also delightful. The second layer, "tootou body," melted on the tongue with its gelatinous quality, becoming addictive. The following "flesh skin" was seasoned with "toge salt" and shichimi-togarashi, providing a complex flavor profile. The shichimi-togarashi of the "tootou body" echoed the gelatinous texture and complex spiciness. The more we ate, the more our appetites grew, without any guilt. What a delightful experience!
Next, a rare dish appeared, the blowfish ovaries pickled in nuka. Normally, blowfish ovaries contain a deadly poison and are prohibited for consumption by the Food Sanitation Act. However, in regions like Fukui and Ishikawa, it is possible to produce them. After aging for over two years, the poison is removed by pickling in salt or nuka. For me, who hails from Obama, Fukui, the pickled blowfish ovaries are a familiar taste. The "nuka pickled blowfish ovaries" on the right were made at a blowfish cuisine inn in the Wakasa region of Fukui, where my family and I have been well taken care of. What a serendipitous encounter! It was aged for three years using "Bom" junmai ginjo sake lees, resulting in a rich and aromatic flavor. The mellow saltiness was unexpectedly delightful. On the other hand, the one on the left was from Ishikawa's sesame blowfish. It was aged for two years, with a sticky and caviar-like texture. Both from Fukui and Ishikawa had their own merits, becoming a topic of conversation.
I was so excited that my excitement level rose. Laughing, I continued my enthusiastic storytelling while enjoying "Matsunosuke Junmai Ginjo Mizuki" sake.
We then indulged in the fried blowfish, reminiscent of spare ribs, devouring it eagerly. It was plump, juicy, and meaty. I almost switched back to beer, but I paired it with a highball instead.
The second grilled blowfish dish was [harami and black uguisu]. The "harami" in front is the diaphragm covered in flesh skin. The "black uguisu" is a rare part located at the base of the dorsal fin. The harami had a good elasticity and bite. The black uguisu had a bouncy texture and a rich flavor.
The third grilled blowfish dish was soy sauce-flavored [black uguisu and back meat]. The black uguisu had a vibrant texture, while the back meat was rich and flavorful.