On this day, I made my first visit to "Kibun" in Nishiazabu, led by Ugo Perret-Gallix. This time, I opted for the omakase course (¥22,500) with an alcohol pairing. While Chef Hugo's background as a former chef at Esquisse is often highlighted, the dishes at "Kibun" evoke his training at the traditional kaiseki restaurant "Kikunoi," showcasing a wonderful blend of Japanese cuisine and French influences. Sitting at the counter allows you to witness his impressive knife skills, making it a recommended choice for smaller groups. What we enjoyed included: **Eager Bitterness** Squid and Kaga cucumber with yogurt – The umami of the squid and the refreshing taste of the cucumber create a perfect balance in the mouth. Paired with a sake and wasabi cocktail. **Mackerel and Rape Blossoms with Blood Orange Cold Cream** The mackerel was impeccably prepared, without any off-putting odor. The idea of pairing it with blood orange cream was intriguing. Accompanied by 2020 E. Guigal’s Côtes du Rhône Rosé. I was surprised to learn that Guigal made a rosé; it pairs well with both Japanese and French cuisine. I hope to see high-quality rosé wines become available in Japan. **Spring Ripple** Bamboo shoots and flower pepper with Parmigiano and shallot vinegar – The bamboo shoots and flower pepper capture the essence of spring and are seasonal ingredients. The deep richness of Parmigiano, which is not typically used in Japanese cuisine, complements them well. Paired with Huggy Wine's KAMOSHI. **Perky Juiciness** White asparagus with fresh sea urchin – The crispness of the white asparagus combined with the creaminess of the sea urchin fills the mouth with flavor. Accompanied by a 2017 Domaine Grand Savagnin’s Côtes du Jura Savagnin Vin de Voile. I was astonished to find Jura wine being served. The pairings cleverly blend elements of Japanese sake, Japanese wine, and French wine. **Kyoto Bozushi** Mackerel sushi roll – This arrangement of mackerel sushi roll reflects Kyoto's traditions, showcasing Hugo’s unique touches. Paired with Junmai Ginjo Mansaku no Hana. **Grateful Richness** Free-range pork, beans from Noto Takako, and salad – The juicy free-range pork combined with fresh beans evokes the bounty of nature. Accompanied by a 2017 Harmand-Geoffroy’s Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur. **Loving Sweetness** Tonka bean and chocolate tart with pine-scented ice cream – The roasted aroma of tonka bean and the rich chocolate tart are accented perfectly by the pine-scented ice cream.

Opened in April this year, this French restaurant incorporates elements of Japanese cuisine, created by a chef who honed his skills at places like Kikunoi Honten and Esquisse. The chef previously worked at Kikunoi, which has accepted foreign chefs for training in Japanese cuisine with the aim of promoting Japanese food abroad. The dishes include ingredients like hamo (pike conger) and saba sushi, showcasing essence from Kyoto. The saba sushi uses mackerel from Iwate Prefecture, combined with strong flavors from sansho pepper, ginger, shiso, and myoga, along with a mix of celery and pickled plum. The dish appears simple but has a pleasingly complex taste, with vinegar providing a crisp kick. The thinly sliced daikon and the rich texture of the mackerel were delightful. The slowly cooked hamo had a satisfying volume. It's paired with grilled eggplant, sesame paste, lemon thyme, anchovy, and hamo broth sauce. The flavor is unexpectedly complex compared to its appearance, with the toasted sesame and eggplant providing a wonderful spice, complemented by a refreshing note from the lemon thyme. The delicate cooking technique maximized the hamo's texture. Other dishes also combined gentle flavors with aromatic ingredients like cacao, eucalyptus, celery root, Indonesian pepper, and dried tangerine peel, leaving a strong impression. The variety of ingredients used offers surprising and fresh flavors. One wonders about the chef's thought process in creating these dishes. Despite being called French-Japonese, the culinary experience is distinctly individual and outstanding.

All the dishes were delicious, but the thick mackerel sushi was exceptional. Despite its unique combination, the flavors are delightful, which I believe is thanks to Chef Ugo, who embodies Japanese cuisine better than many Japanese chefs. 菊乃井 has a strong foundation in Japanese cooking, making everything taste even better.

The chef Hugo, who trained at establishments like Kikunoi and Esquisse, has opened his own restaurant called Kibun. The course style started with a strong influence of Japanese cuisine and gradually shifted to a greater proportion of French style, creating a narrative throughout the meal. Being from Kyoto, I wanted to try the mackerel sushi, and the chef's specialty, the barracuda sushi, was delicious. The other dishes showcased the unique flavors that only Chef Hugo could create. However, the alcohol pairing was great in the latter half, but in the beginning, it didn't quite match well with the Japanese-inspired dishes. I believe that once the chef and sommelier find a better understanding of each other, it will improve even more.

**Restaurant Review: "Kibun" - Selected by Michelin in 2025 Edition** Opened in April 2024, "Kibun" is a French restaurant located on the second floor of a dining building, just a 10-minute walk from Roppongi and Hiroo subway stations in Tokyo. The chef, Hugo Pereira Galic, trained for two years at "Kikunoi" in Kyoto and for seven years at "Esquisse" in Ginza. The restaurant was selected for the Michelin Guide almost immediately after opening. The interior is chic and stylish, with a relaxed atmosphere enhanced by jazz music. The omakase menu is priced at 22,500 yen (including tax) and features seasonal seafood and fresh local vegetables, showcasing exquisite ingredients and delicate techniques. ### Dishes Overview - **First Dish**: Perhaps a turnip? Served with homemade karasumi (dried mullet roe), sake lees, and Parmesan cheese. "Hmm? What is this?" It was watery, and the flavors were not developed. Quite concerning. - **Second Dish**: New squid from Awaji Island, accompanied by kintoki melon, passion fruit, and sesame. The squid is a good ingredient but not particularly flavorful. What message is trying to be conveyed here? - **Third Dish**: Surf clam from Hokkaido, paired with cauliflower, apple and oyster sauce, shine muscat grapes, and okra. This was decent, with a complex layering of flavors that worked together, just about. - **Fourth Dish**: Kibun's saba (mackerel) sushi roll with saffron rice. "Ah ha, this is definitely influenced by 'Kikunoi'." However, as a regular diner at Kikunoi, I felt it lacked in comparison. - **Fifth Dish**: Plum with sweet and sour hibiscus pickle as a palate cleanser. This was fine as a refreshment. - **Sixth Dish**: Homemade country bread. This was delicious, using natural yeast with a stronger acidity that gave it character. I liked it. - **Seventh Dish**: Ikura (salmon roe) from Hokkaido with beetroot and juniper berries. An interesting combination. The ikura looked like it was soaked in soy sauce but had a very delicate flavor. The pairing of cheese cream, beetroot, and ikura surprisingly worked well together. - **Eighth Dish**: Conger eel from Awaji Island with eggplant and lemon thyme. Wow, this was well done. The eel, cut into bones and cooked just before serving, was fluffy and paired nicely with the sauce. - **Ninth Dish**: Lobster from Mie, with ginkgo nuts and chestnut sauce. Ah, this was good too. The large lobster was lightly cooked, and the chestnut sauce was novel and unique. It was delicious. - **Tenth Dish**: Venison from Honshu, with Kaga beauty lotus root and a cacao and eucalyptus sauce. Delicious venison—tender and milky. The sauce added a nice individuality that complemented the dish. - **Eleventh Dish**: Pear from Chiba with coconut, celery granita, and yogurt ice cream. A refreshing finish with high quality, very satisfying. - **Final Dish**: Sweet treat with Amazon cacao. Well-executed; the chef clearly excels at desserts with a moderate sweetness that was delightful. ### Drinks - Carbonated water: 1,650 yen. ### Service - Attentive and polite service. ### Overall Cost - A reasonable price. The omakase and carbonated water totaled 26,565 yen. The latter half of the meal was stronger than the first, which had several dishes that lacked flavor development. However, the final three dishes were excellent and made up for it. **Reflection**: The techniques from Esquisse predominated, but the influence from Kikunoi appeared in interesting ways. Thank you for the meal! **Rating (as of October 2024)**: Food critics have rated it 3.09 on Tabelog with 7 reviews.

I was told by the owner of a certain restaurant to check this place out and made a reservation. The chef, who trained at Kikunoi and Esquisse, is still young! Until the door opens, I had no idea where it was located, but when it was time, they greeted me outside. The interior is dimly lit with a black theme. There is a counter and an eight-person table. I chose the omakase course and consulted with the sommelier about the wine. The first dish was radish with homemade karasumi and a spice called za'atar from Lebanon, which was indescribably delicious and had a slightly ethnic vibe. Next was white squid with winter melon and sweetfish, where the sweetfish was used as a sauce, providing a refreshing contrast to the creamy squid. Then came the whelk with okra, lemon balm, and sesame paste, which also had an ethnic touch, fitting for the lingering summer. The mackerel futomaki (rolled sushi) was unexpectedly presented with gari, myoga, and perilla, creating a vibrant, French-style dish with herbs as a delightful accent. Another dish was a sesame salad with three-leaved brassica and prunes that had been cooked in Cuvée, serving as a nice palate cleanser. The butternut squash was served with a paste of feta cheese, honey, and rosemary, showcasing rosemary amidst the mix of herbs; the squash was delicious. Next was surf clam in a broth made with edamame and clam, which was superb! The green from the edamame paired beautifully with the chewiness of the surf clam. The steamed rockfish was served with Swiss chard sautéed in juniper berry butter and lavender sauce; this was my favorite dish of the evening. The steamed rockfish had just the right amount of fat, and the beurre blanc sauce complemented it perfectly. Then there was the venison from Tottori with red onion cooked in masala and a green salad on the side. The summer venison was quite tasty. For dessert, figs from Aichi were paired with anise crumble, blueberry sheet, and white chocolate mousse, along with fennel and blueberry sorbet, followed by chocolate made from Amazon cacao and orange peel. Overall, I felt a great potential in how herbs were utilized in the dishes. I think women would really enjoy this place!

Kibun, a restaurant from France, showcases the innovative use of ingredients in a gentle and beautiful presentation of each dish. Today, I enjoyed a pairing and had a wonderful time. Thank you! #Kibun #Nishiazabu #French #JapaneseCuisine #Innovative #InnovativeFusion

Hugo, who has trained at Esquisse and Kikunoi, presents a fascinating combination of unique ingredients and flavor profiles. The foundation is undoubtedly Japanese cuisine, but he adds French and innovative elements. Under Hugo's hands, dishes like mackerel sushi and eel take on flavors I've never experienced before. The bread is also incredibly delicious; I believe such tasty bread is hard to find in Japan. It was also delightful at Esquisse. Overall, the quality is quite high. The challenge now is how to create specialties that make you want to eat them multiple times. As for the pairings, they are decent, maybe even good, but there's room for improvement. Fortunately, pairing Japanese sake with Hugo's dishes works very well. As a fan of Esquisse, I look forward to what this restaurant will offer in the future.

I was very much looking forward to visiting this new restaurant by Chef Hugo, who has honed his skills at esteemed places like Kikuno-ii and Esquisse. The course offered a delightful blend of French influences and Japanese flavors, and the wine pairing was excellent. The sauces were complex and bursting with umami. The dessert, a chocolate and tonka bean tart, turned out to be surprisingly large, leaving me quite full. I look forward to visiting again in a different season. Thank you, it was a wonderful experience!

I visited this restaurant after seeing it featured in Tabelog Magazine, and the chef is from Esquisse. The combination of bamboo shoots garnished with flower pepper and Parmigiano shallots was innovative and delicious. It was also rare to have white rockfish as the main dish. The cover photo of the sea urchin and asparagus seems like a combination that is particularly fitting for early June. Overall, since the chef is from a French background, the sauces and soups were creatively crafted and very tasty. The chocolate cake for dessert was delicious, but the portion was quite a mystery—it felt like a substantial amount just for dessert, making me quite full! While I think the modern approach to the dishes is great, the layout of the space felt strange. There are 4-6 counter seats and a single large table that seats 8. We were at the table, and since there were no other guests at the table that day, it was fine, but if there had been others, I might have felt a bit uneasy. When I visited Esquisse, I wrote that the space seemed uncharacteristic for a grand maison, and while I clearly understand this place isn’t a grand maison, I still found the layout quite puzzling. I’m not sure about the best use of the space. Recently, the only hotel French that has left an impression on me is Cezan, so I feel it would be better to do French cuisine in a hotel setting.

I never expected to learn about the ancient meaning of "kibun" from a French person, despite my lack of study. This everyday term, referring to one's mood being good or bad, actually means "to infuse energy and share that energy." The one explaining this concept is Chef Hugo Pere Galix, a young French chef. Despite his youthful appearance, resembling a boy, he entered the culinary world at 15 and has trained at "Kikunoi" and "Esquise" since arriving in Japan. Speaking fluent Japanese, as he described the meaning of "kibun," I was convinced that he must have been Japanese in a past life. His sensitivity, possibly even more refined than that of a Japanese person, is evident in his technique with fish. When I asked him why he decided to come to Japan, he said he was attracted by the entirely different techniques from French cuisine. His course menu gradually transitions from Japanese to French, yet it seamlessly integrates both influences. The set menu costs 22,500 yen (tax included). Here's what was served: 1. Amuse: Presented on a beautiful Karatsu ceramic plate, featuring homemade karasumi (salted mullet roe) with daikon and za'atar, a Lebanese spice. The spice usage is original, yet the presentation feels completely Japanese. 2. Eager Bitterness: Prepared with surume ika (squid) and Kaga cucumber, infused with black garlic that had rested for two weeks. The Edomae squid is rolled up with an intricate pairing of cucumber and ginger. 3. Spring Ripple: A dish of bamboo shoots and flower pepper, garnished with Parmigiano and shallot vinegar. The artistry in the bamboo shoots is unique, and the saltiness of the Parmigiano complements it well. The bamboo is from Chiba, while the flower pepper is from Nara. 4. Perky Juiciness: A pairing of white asparagus and uni (sea urchin). The presentation surprises, transforming French white asparagus into something “Japanese.” The sauce is made from white asparagus dashi and Vin Jaune, gradually revealing the French influence. 5. Kyoto Bozushi: Mackerel sushi rolled in the style learned from "Kikunoi." On that day, the fish used was striped jack, although mackerel can be served sometimes. I found this so delightful that I requested a second helping. It was accompanied by a sesame dressing. 6. Stormy Summer: This dish features umeboshi (pickled plum) and lightly smoked eggplant, using hamo (pike eel) from Yuura, poached in hamo stock at 67℃. Hearing the term "poached hamo" was a first for me. The genius of his cooking shows clearly in the perfect poaching technique. Here, mustard and long pepper enhance the dish, adding a surprisingly “non-Japanese” aroma to the hamo. 7. Soothing Landing: White amadai (sweetfish) with flower zucchini. The dish features a cold cream of blood orange and is steamed directly, showing a moist cooking technique that astonishes. Additionally, the cold sauce, which resembles ice cream, provides a unique pairing when combined with the white amadai. Another sauce made with beurre blanc infused with marjoram adds depth, accompanied by flower zucchini and accented with Indonesian cubeb pepper. 8. Grateful Richness: Pyrenees pigeon with a Noto bean salad. The whole pigeon is beautifully roasted to reveal a remarkably tender interior. The garnishes include green peas and fava beans, with a sauce made from tarragon, sardines, beets, chicken stock, and star anise. For the salad, they used naturally farmed vegetables from "Le Potager de Sel" in Saku. 9. Loving Sweetness: Tart made with tonka bean and chocolate, served with ice cream infused with the aroma of Akamatsu (red pine). The tart contains Amazon cacao but has an impressively light finish, complemented by a refreshing hinata-natsu (a variety of citrus) granita. 10. Mignardises: Featuring a hazelnut jaconde biscuit paired with mango, shiso puree, lime zest, and chinpi powder. 11. Chamomile Tea Loaf: Homemade sourdough country bread that was remarkable. Served with two types of butter: a regular one and one infused with dill, ginger, and lemongrass. Accompanying the meal: - Cocktail: A sake cocktail called "Umibozu Poseidon," mixed with lime juice, crafted by the skilled sommelier Yasuyuki Yoshida. - Red wine: A glass of La Dame de Montrose, Saint Estéphe 2015. The restaurant has counter seating and a large table. On the day of my visit, there were only two groups, and they used the large table, making it difficult to avoid eavesdropping on conversations. I would have preferred a separation between the counter and table guests in such situations. Nonetheless, Chef Hugo's skills left me astounded. His subtle flavor crafting is extraordinary. I look forward to seeing how he further merges Japanese and French techniques to elevate his cuisine.

I visited the newly opened "Ki-bun" in Nishiazabu, an innovative restaurant born from the synergy of Chef Hugo Perret-Gallix from Éskiss and the spirit of Kikunoi. Chef Hugo, a young talent from France, speaks Japanese diligently as he explains his dishes. The offerings highlight Japanese ingredients, bringing out their natural allure through Kikunoi's techniques, and they are delicately finished with Éskiss's seasonings and sauces, resulting in original and flavorful dishes. One standout dish was "Bamboo Shoots with Flower Pepper and Parmigiano Shallot Vinegar." Generous shavings of Parmigiano atop substantial bamboo shoots, accompanied by shallot vinegar and floral pepper, created a sublime balance that showcased the traditional Japanese ingredient in a new light. Despite having a French base, the "Mackerel Sushi" was also incredibly delicious, rivaling top sushi restaurants. The properly prepared mackerel and rice burst with umami as you chew, prompting me to order a second serving. The dish of Spanish mackerel and rape blossoms was exceptional, with perfect cooking that highlighted the sweetness of the fish through a delicate blood orange cold cream. Each dish was impressive, with sauces that complemented rather than overwhelmed the ingredients. Sommelier Yasuyuki Yoshida, who has experience from L'Ecran and Asahina, provided wonderful hospitality with his remarkable aura. Thank you for the delightful meal! *Today's Menu* Eager Bitterness: Sumiika (cuttlefish) with Kaga Big Cucumber and Black Garlic Spring Ripple: Bamboo Shoots with Flower Pepper and Parmigiano Shallot Vinegar Perky Juiciness: White Asparagus with Fresh Sea Urchin Kyoto Bozushi: Mackerel Sushi Lively Delight: Grilled Young Squid with Pickled Cabbage Soothing Landing: Spanish Mackerel and Rape Blossoms with Cold Blood Orange Cream Grateful Richness: Kumamoto Akiushi Beef with Noto Takano Farm Beans and Salad Loving Sweetness: Tonka Bean and Chocolate Tart with Mitsumoto Ice Cream Merci de votre venue Le3 Mai 2024 Ugo Perret-Gallix

While the skills and effort are undeniable, it seems like the direction is lacking. The dishes feel disjointed and lack punch. The squid cucumber roll had a bland taste, and while the mackerel sushi was delicious, it couldn't be the main highlight. The white sweetfish was tasty, and the zucchini was good too, but the combination felt off, with both having subtle flavors. The wine bar ambiance is inherently dark, and the atmosphere makes it hard to relax due to the tension in the air. Sitting at the counter and having the food served right in front of you might be a better experience. The cuisine leans quite heavily towards Japanese influences, giving it a fusion feel that made it hard to enjoy. While it might pass in an overseas setting, the appeal of fusion food in Japan is less compelling.