ちびいと
On October 9th of this year, I made a reservation to visit "Motomazabu Kushima," which just opened in Azabu-Juban, thanks to an introduction from Chef Kawada. Chef Kushima and Chef Kurogi from Daemon, who is also from Miyazaki Prefecture, are classmates. After working at the now-defunct Yaesu Fujiya Hotel and the prestigious Nagoya Marriott Associa Hotel, Chef Kushima spent five years training at the highly sought-after Kurogi in Daemon before opening his own place. His cuisine focuses on meat-centered Japanese dishes rather than the typical meat kaiseki.
The meal began with a lightly fried assortment of chrysanthemum greens, garland chrysanthemum, mushrooms, and maitake mushrooms, topped with bonito flakes. The greens and mushrooms were briefly grilled over charcoal and paired beautifully with the fried maitake, making for a delicious start. Next, the steamed corned beef topped with wasabi had an exquisite balance of flavors. The Miyazaki beef shabu-shabu salad consisted of tender Miyazaki beef lightly submerged in a rich soy sauce and mirin broth, enhanced with an original sesame and walnut dressing that complemented the beef wonderfully.
Grilled shiitake mushrooms were simply seasoned with a sprinkle of salt, grilled over charcoal, and finished with butter and soy sauce, creating a juicy and delectable dish. The charcoal-grilled Miyazaki jidori chicken was simply seasoned with salt, served with sudachi citrus and yuzu pepper, offering straightforward deliciousness. The soup of mudskipper (known as "kue") and mizuna had a hidden hint of yuzu in its flavor.
Horse meat tartare was prepared with chopped walnuts and shiso, enhanced with soy sauce and ginger. It could be enjoyed on a slice of charcoal-grilled toast or wrapped in shiso leaves. The dish combined marinated sea bream from Akashi with Kyoto's smoked duck, along with dried persimmon wrapped around cream cheese and crunchy ginkgo nuts, finished with the braised liver of kue. The Kyoto smoked duck was slow-cooked for 20 minutes to eliminate any gamey taste, resulting in perfectly flavored meat.
The boiled kue liver had been aged for about a week before preparation, developing a unique taste. Salt-roasted ginkgo nuts were prepared by placing them in a frying pan over salt, allowing the inherent flavor of the nuts to shine. The deep-fried spiny lobster came with a homemade tartar sauce that included pickled vegetables and lemon juice, which paired perfectly with the succulent lobster. This tartar was so delicious it could even stand alone with rice.
For the rice course, we were served “Yume Gokochi” rice from Kyoto, alongside pickles, followed by charcoal-grilled chateaubriand. The chateaubriand was grilled with a special soy sauce and served simply with fleur de sel from France and yuzu pepper, creating an exquisite dish. The second rice dish was a meat rice bowl, featuring ribeye and filet mignon mixed with special soy sauce and topped with bonito flakes. This unique flavor is hard to find elsewhere, and I went for seconds.
The spiny lobster miso soup had an outstanding broth, and for dessert, we enjoyed sweet shiranami persimmons and frozen Shine Muscat grapes (I forgot to take a picture). The sweet persimmons had a pleasantly soft texture, while the frozen Shine Muscat was my first experience and surprisingly enjoyable—I’ll try freezing some at home.
To wrap up, we had a salty ice dessert with soybean flour and black syrup (I forgot to take a picture). The salty ice was perfect for a palate cleanser. Chef Kushima's personality truly shines through in his cooking. While there are many restaurants focused on seafood, meat-centric Japanese dining options are rare, making this place stand out. The restaurant also features a wine cellar with a wide selection, making it a great spot for wine lovers. With private rooms available, it's an excellent choice for business meetings as well. Remarkably, considering recent rising costs, the course prices were very reasonable. I look forward to visiting again and am excited to support this new addition to the dining scene.
Today's menu included the following:
- Boiled chrysanthemum greens, garland chrysanthemum, and mushrooms with fried maitake
- Steamed corned beef
- Miyazaki beef shabu-shabu salad, lotus root chips, and original dressing
- Grilled shiitake mushrooms with butter and soy sauce
- Charcoal-grilled jidori chicken with yuzu pepper and sudachi citrus
- Kue and mizuna soup
- Horse meat tartare
- Marinated sea bream with miso, smoked duck from Kyoto, dried persimmon with cream cheese, kue liver, and salt-roasted ginkgo nuts
- Deep-fried spiny lobster with special tartar sauce
- White rice with pickles
- Charcoal-grilled chateaubriand with yuzu pepper
- Meat rice bowl
- Spiny lobster miso soup
- Sweet shiranami persimmons and frozen Shine Muscat grapes (photo not taken)
- Salty ice with soybean flour and black syrup (photo not taken)