JOEクン
In a quiet residential area just a five-minute walk from Azabu-Juban Station, you’ll find the hidden gem "Sushi Rikaku," marked discreetly by its sleek black exterior. Upon entering this chic establishment, you’re greeted by a modern and luxurious interior, highlighted by an impressive counter made from African cherry wood. The chef, Mr. Otsuka, honed his skills at "Hokake" in Higashi-Ginza. In October 2023, Mr. Otsuka opened "Sushi Rikaku," inspired by the desire to offer a place that brings benefits to its customers, derived from the abbreviation "Rikaku," meaning "profit confirmation."
The chef is deeply passionate about his craft, putting significant thought into everything from the sushi to the beautifully crafted plates used for serving. He offers a selection of Imari and Arita ceramics, including pieces from the Living National Treasure, Mr. Manji Inoue. The only course available is the Omakase menu priced at 35,000 yen, and it’s a completely members-only establishment. This time, I was accompanied by a member.
Before the sushi begins, a series of exquisite appetizer dishes showcase the chef's artistry. The "Exquisite Chawanmushi with Sakura Shrimp" dazzles with vibrant colors and beautiful presentation. The gentle taste of the egg pairs wonderfully with the savory, delicate Sakura shrimp. Next, the "Hairy Crab Miso with White Cod" features substantial cod that delivers an incredible texture, combined with the rich flavor of hairy crab miso.
We also enjoyed "Hana Mozuku," a refreshing dish that served as a palate cleanser. The crunchy texture and pleasant balance of sourness were delightful. The "Kamasu Bohzushi" handed to us was surprisingly hefty; the rich, fatty fish bursts with savory flavors balanced perfectly with the seaweed and rice.
The "Kue Shabu-Shabu," made from a 7kg Kue caught in Nagasaki, was remarkably tender and satisfying, with a broth that had clearly been carefully prepared. The "Otoro Roll," freshly made and served directly, was luxuriously abundant with fatty tuna and wrapped in aromatic seaweed. The "Iwashi" (sardine) was rich and meaty, with a perfect mix of textures that made it a memorable piece.
The expertly prepared "Sumi Ika" showcases the unique texture achieved through skilled preparation. The "Fugu" surprised me with an unexpectedly rich, fatty mouthfeel. Made from wild tiger fugu from Bungo Suido, the fish was firm and delicious. The "Sawara" melts beautifully in your mouth, while its size ensures a satisfying bite.
The "Hairy Crab" nigiri was generously loaded with sweet crab meat that seamlessly blended with the rice. The "Kohada" (shad) was stunningly presented, showcasing the expert treatment given by the chef that resulted in a perfect balance of flavors. The "Marinated Tuna" presented a soft, melting texture, while the "Aji" (horse mackerel) displayed beautiful presentation, with its firm yet delicate flavor.
The "Sweet Shrimp" was boiled right in front of us, yielding a delightful, fresh crunch and concentrated flavor. The "Ikura" (salmon roe) was served in beautifully crafted "Nabeshima Sarasa" pottery, known for its rich history. This restaurant’s specialty, referred to as "half-cooked Ikura," offered a shocking texture that completely redefined what I thought about salmon roe. The rich flavor created a blissful experience.
The "Uni" (sea urchin) was extravagantly piled on top of the rice, melting in your mouth with unmatched sweetness. The "Anago" (conger eel) was served in both salt and tsume sauce, allowing for a delightful comparison of flavors. This balance was a lovely way to end the meal.
The meal concluded with a red miso soup, enriched with the essence of clams, providing a comforting moment to reflect on the evening. The overall course flowed beautifully, offering just the right amount of food. For dessert, we enjoyed crisp persimmons, which were perfectly ripe with a satisfying texture.
I had made an early reservation and had work afterward, so I limited my drink selections to soft drinks, but the wine and sake offerings were impressive, and I hope to experience a pairing course with sushi in the future!