O-YA-G
On the way from Roppongi to Iikura, I headed to a special underground space designed exclusively for enjoying an exquisite Chinese course called "ULTRA K," made with seasonal ingredients. Even before entering, I could already sense the satisfaction I would feel when leaving. As I took my seat, I heard my own sighs intended to ease my tension, and a soft-spoken female staff member welcomed me with tea. I took a sip—delicious! I couldn’t help but sigh again. After finishing my first cup, I opted for a non-alcoholic tea pairing from the extensive drink menu, considering I had the next day to think about. Served with a mix of candied nuts as a palate cleanser was "Ali Shan High Mountain Jin Xuan Tea," which had a pleasant natural sweetness that evolved in flavor as it steeped. This tea wasn’t just a complement to the dishes; it became a wonderful thread woven through the course.
Soon, the star of the menu, the Shanghai crab, appeared—the sturdy and robust Dazha crab from Suzhou’s Yangcheng Lake. What's more, this restaurant exclusively uses female crabs. Years ago, I was shocked to learn from a local in Hong Kong that Shanghai crabs are freshwater crabs, and they are not caught in Shanghai but are shipped from Suzhou, hence the name. Moreover, it was said that "most delicious Shanghai crabs are exported to Japan, which means the supply of high-quality ones is scarce in China and Hong Kong, leading some people to travel to Japan just to eat them." I couldn't wait to see how the restaurant would serve the Shanghai crab.
The first dish was a Shanghai crab spring roll, filled with crab meat and topped with caviar and either Bella Lodi or fresh cheese. The piping hot spring roll was irresistible, perfectly balancing the sweetness of the crab, the saltiness of the caviar, and the richness of the cheese. I thought to myself that I could finish the meal with this dish alone—it was a real home run, just like a lead-off home run by Ohtani!
Next up were a spoonful of ikura and sea urchin, featuring Hong Kong red vinegar sushi rice, Hokkaido sea urchin, and ikura with a foam sauce—this was truly a refined Japanese dish in a single bite. Then came the caviar green salad, with basil-infused vermicelli, finely diced cucumber, and avocado, all topped with caviar and karasumi. It was fresh and refreshing with a hint of the ocean—a unique ULTRA K style that defied categorization.
As we progressed through the initial courses, the next offering was an appetizer platter, which included "momentarily smoked Shanghai-style spicy chicken" with homemade chili oil, plump chicken, caramelized peanuts, and cilantro. This dish had a balanced mild heat that even those who typically dislike cilantro could enjoy. Served separately were fried eel, smoked saury, and a tea and duck egg salad.
Chef Kobayashi made a live appearance at the front of the counter to prepare “sweetfish fried with a sweet vinegar sauce.” As he explained the sauce preparation, the cooking process unfolded beautifully. The sweet vinegar sauce, made with a soy sauce base, was combined with chili oil instead of sesame oil, green onions, clippings of fresh chili, and chives—all freshly cut just moments before. The dish's sweetness shone without the sharpness of the peppers. When the lightly floured sweetfish was fried to a crisp and paired with the sauce, it was incredibly delicious. I couldn’t help but think that this sauce would go wonderfully with rice.
As I was enjoying the sweetfish, a small bowl of rice appeared before me—a kind gesture from the attentive server who must have overheard my comment. When I drizzled the sauce over the rice, it exceeded my expectations in flavor! The vegetables, cut with Chef Kobayashi's impressive technique, tasted extraordinarily fresh.
Next was "KOBAYASHI Special XO Sauce ULTRA Style,” made with preserved scallops and Jinhua ham, maximizing flavor while keeping the spice level low. This premium XO sauce was fantastic on its own or as a side. It accompanied a seafood ajillo made with delicious Kagoshima prawns, Hokkaido’s shirako, and oysters, all harmonized further by the added XO sauce.
We were then served "Longfeng Gorge High Mountain Tea," after which Chef Kobayashi returned to prepare "stir-fried shredded potatoes." Using a mix of white sesame oil and a hint of chili oil, he stir-fried the meticulously sliced potatoes until they were translucent, then added broth, a touch of black vinegar, salt, and sugar, finishing it lightly with cornstarch for a slight thickness. The result was a stunningly fresh potato dish that was far superior to any I had had before.
Next was "tofu simmered with Shanghai crab," where tofu was cooked in a sauce made from crab meat and roe. It was delicious on its own but even better enhanced with the spicy condiments served separately.
Then came the hand wings, which were served with a spritz of 20-year-old Shaoxing wine. Each wing was filled with shark fin and ginkgo, and the combination of crispy skin and the rich aroma of aged wine added to the enjoyment. Alongside, a lightly flavored burdock root and string bean dish was surprisingly tasty.
The main attraction was high-quality wagyu from Yamaguchi Prefecture paired with solid Yamagata Matsutake mushrooms. Chef Kobayashi took center stage again to prepare. He fried the Matsutake, releasing its fragrance throughout the restaurant, and seared the wagyu before combining them with garlic, Shaoxing wine, and spring onion oil in the pot. The depth of umami and aroma from the Matsutake combined with the wagyu was exquisite.
The next dish was a soup—the only one in the course—a richly flavored chicken broth with hand-pulled noodles that had a nice chew to them, accented by the slight bitterness of chives.
Dessert was supposed to be the finale, but then came an unexpected fried rice dish! Chef Kobayashi prepared a cooked rice with preserved scallops right before my eyes in about three minutes. Using Thai rice instead of eggs and constantly tossing it until it emitted a "cake-like aroma," he added finely sliced spring onions and a substantial amount of scallops with salt, stirring until completion. Miraculously, it tasted like concentrated umami without any greasy sensation. It was truly remarkable—like nothing I had tasted before. Following the chef's suggestion, I dipped some into the chicken broth—what an incredible flavor combination!
To finish, there was mango pudding, made from Alfonso mangoes blended with evaporated milk, resulting in a dessert that was even more mango than mango itself. Finally, with the last tea, “Ali Shan Black Tea,” came a traditional Chinese dessert, “shengyuebing,” filled with matcha, coconut, and candied winter melon—a delightful twist on the concept of tea sweets.
I truly appreciated Chef Kobayashi's skills and sensibilities throughout this experience. The hospitality of the staff was also impressively attentive. I learned that the menu changes with the seasons, and I hope to have the opportunity to return and savor it again.