あるぱかーん
Today's eel is here. It opened in January this year at Toranomon Hills and is a direct store of Nakasho Shoten, which includes the famous Yondai-me Kikukawa. It’s located on the 4th floor of the Toranomon Hills Station Tower, in a lively dining area during lunch hours. Before coming here, I had to resist the temptation of many appealing restaurants around, haha. Nakasho's brand is quite common and has many locations nationwide, showcasing their ambitious spirit, haha. The concepts between Yondai-me Kikukawa and Nakasho seem to differ slightly, as Nakasho doesn’t emphasize the classic one-book unaju (grilled eel over rice) as much.
Now, this store isn't very spacious, but I appreciated that I could see the cooking process. Many Nakasho-related stores have this feature. I stood by the counter today where I could see everything well, haha. They offer a lunch menu that includes a slightly smaller but more affordable hitsumabushi (grilled eel over rice served with various condiments) among other dishes like tendon (tempura rice bowl). The lunch eel bowl is the same as the grand menu but is priced more reasonably. I was indecisive but, craving grilled eel, opted for the unaju this time. The price remains the same during lunch. They also had a unique seasonal option that mixed grilled eel with Arima-ni (a type of simmered dish). That's quite rare.
Today’s eel is from Taiwan, grilled over charcoal.
▶︎ Ordered item: Unaju 4600 yen
Includes pickles, a small side dish, and liver soup. Free large rice portion.
It was served in about 15 minutes. There were about four pieces of eel. Yondai-me Kikukawa typically has around 3.5 pieces, which might explain the price difference. I was glad it was served piping hot. The grilling was done quite well, with a nice coating on the surface and no unevenness. The eel was moist, fluffy, and juicy, and the texture was good. However, the skin was a bit burnt, which was noticeable, but it was grilled somewhere between crispy and chewy. Well, the skin itself was thin.
Unfortunately, the eel lacked flavor, far too weak. Usually, Taiwanese eel has a notable taste and aroma, which I personally like. However, today’s version was disappointingly bland. Despite being grilled well with the right texture, the eel misses the mark—what a waste. The skin's fat had rendered away, resulting in a texture that lacked substance. I couldn't relish the eel as I ought to have. You could sense the shop's intention through the thin skin, fat, and quality of the meat, but the essential taste was simply lacking. I wished they focused a bit more on that core aspect.
The sauce seemed quite similar to that of Yondai-me Kikukawa, but it conveyed a more subdued impression. It was a bit on the sweeter side, but smooth and easy to eat—though, if I had to be critical, it didn’t leave a lasting impression. I felt that Yondai-me Kikukawa's sauce had a bit more richness and depth, but it’s a minor detail, haha. The balance of the sauce with the food was good. Regarding aroma, the grilled flavor felt somewhat cheap, and the sauce’s fragrance was lacking.
I ordered the rice in a large portion, and it filled the small unaju box quite well. The rice was tasty. The small side dish was eel and ginger jelly, which was refreshing and a nice change in flavor. The pickles and liver soup could have been more flavorful. There were two types of pepper, which was consistent.
The staff were pleasant, and the grilling technique was solid, making it a good restaurant overall. However, perhaps due to bad luck, the eel quality was disappointing. In Nakasho stores, I usually don’t come across domestic eel either, but the eel's taste was usually better. I hope they can improve a bit more. I don’t think eel lovers would be satisfied with this. Thank you for the meal!