具留目恥垢
This is, of course, a sister restaurant of Ilurato, and it’s worth noting the differences, particularly that they offer a night à la carte menu. To differentiate further, they seem to be putting in daily efforts. I visited after reserving the 13,000 yen course in advance. It seems that the 8,800 yen course has different numbers of dishes and content. The main dish for the 8,800 yen course appears to be fish. The course menu included the following:
- Cappellini with sea urchin from Rishiri and red eggplant
- Sautéed octopus from Akashi with marinara sauce
- Grilled grouper from Tateyama with clam chowder sauce
- Trofie with abalone pesto
- Mushroom ragout with summer truffle
- Grilled lamb from Rosel
- Edamame gelato
- Poached white peach from Fukushima with sake lees gelato and rose aroma
- Tiramisu (additional order)
I was surprised to start with cappellini topped with sea urchin. Being from the same supplier as Ilurato, which is reputed for its seafood, the sea urchin was certainly better than the average restaurant's. The eggplant also provided excellent flavor. The octopus from Akashi was extremely tender with rich taste. It's rare to be impressed by octopus, but this one was exceptional. The octopus was served with anchovy and tomato marinara sauce, sea purslane, and potato purée.
The grilled grouper, treated as an appetizer, was very much like a fish dish you’d expect from Ilurato. The skin was beautifully charred with strong flavors, paired with clam chowder sauce. The first pasta dish was trofie with pesto. The trofie was small, accompanied by slices of abalone and very fresh pesto sauce. I hadn’t had such great pesto since La Sforina in Roppongi. It’s incredible how a simple pasta dish can stand out this way. The portion of the pasta was also satisfactory.
The second pasta dish was spaghetti with mushroom ragout. This was incredibly delicious. It was surprising to have such great flavor without relying on seafood or meat broth. It surpassed many pastas using porcini or matsutake at lesser establishments. It felt like I was entering a new realm. I actually preferred the pasta here over Ilurato.
The main course was grilled lamb from Rosel. It had been a while since I had French rack of lamb. With rising prices in New Zealand and Australia, even restaurants with decent price ranges can no longer afford to use French lamb. The lamb was grilled to perfection, juicy, and of good quality, and unlike older Italian styles, the sauce was also well prepared.
For dessert, the first dish was edamame gelato. The gelato, made by extracting flavor from edamame, had a strong edamame taste and was very delicious. It was served with pea shoots and fennel. The second dessert featured poached peach with sake lees gelato, finished with a spray of rose aroma. The combination of fragrances was remarkable and well executed. I added a tiramisu to my order. It included mascarpone cream, cocoa powder seasoned with tonka bean, espresso sauce, and coffee gelato.
One feature of this restaurant is their impressive range of desserts, including a standalone parfait. They also offer an à la carte dessert course during special events. This approach truly differentiates them, not only from Ilurato but from Italian cuisine in general, which I found to be exceptional. I didn’t have much wine, but they seem to have a strong selection. They offer Nebbiolo extracted using Coravin, even by the glass. In the evenings, some guests come solely for cheese and wine, making it accessible for wine lovers as well. The young chef seems to have already achieved a good degree of culinary completion. I would like to visit again. Thank you for the meal!