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The 2024 issue has been highlighted mainly due to the abolition of the grace period for the upper limit of overtime work, leading to constraints in securing labor. This is particularly concerning in industries like transportation, where it is linked to the workforce shortage in related sectors and is expected to have a significant impact on people's daily lives. The labor shortage in Japan's job market arises directly from population decline and rising job vacancy rates, representing a structural problem. However, the severity of this issue varies by industry and type of employment. In the case of full-time employees, it is particularly pronounced in sectors like information services, maintenance, security, and construction. On the other hand, in the non-regular employment sphere, industries such as restaurants, inns, hotels, human resource dispatch, and food retail face a particularly serious labor shortage, indicating that industries featured on platforms like Tabelog are not unrelated to this issue.
Recently, during my explorations of eateries, I've encountered instances of temporary and full closures due to labor shortages, which has made me feel this issue very closely. For example, in the Jimbocho area during my lunch activities, I attempted to visit a restaurant called "Furatto Hinata" but was turned away twice. On the same day, I had a similar experience at "Gyunabe, Hiresukiyaki, and Seafood Restaurant Jimbocho Azuki," which is also a member of Tabelog. Upon checking the restaurant's website, I saw no signs of problems, but when I arrived, I found a notice on the door stating, "Due to labor shortages, we will be temporarily closed during the following period." Strangely enough, the closure notice referred to dates beyond my visit, indicating a severe situation.
Having no choice, I used the Tabelog app to search for nearby restaurants and discovered another eatery along Yasukuni Street. This restaurant is located about 50 meters from the A5 exit of the subway, just east of the Jimbocho intersection. Previously, in this location, there was a chicken restaurant called "Hanaage Jimbocho," which I had visited for lunch and reviewed, but it seems that did not last long. After a period of vacancy for restaurant operations, this new establishment opened in November 2023. The parent company is S.K. Corporation, established in August 2005 and based in Kachidoki, Chuo-ku. There is a similarly named restaurant company in Ginza (specifically, "S.K. Corporation" with a middle dot in a different position), which owns an 8-story building on the Ginza Corridor and operates eight restaurants on an 80-tsubo floor, but they are entirely separate entities. The S.K. Corporation I visited operates four establishments, including this one, along with three izakayas in the Jimbocho and Ogawamachi area: Kurikami-bo, Masuya Jimbocho, and Nikumotsuya Jinbo.
Interestingly, it seems this company initially started as a small chain operating four izakayas, including the earlier mentioned "Masuya Jimbocho," but it is likely that they were transitioning ownership as opening four new establishments at once seems unusual. The evidence may not be conclusive, but it's noteworthy that they closed three of the four restaurants in the following year after their founding. The one that survived is "Masuya Jimbocho." During that time, it appears there were significant management shake-ups, including a change in representatives (some sources even mention a bankruptcy), but now Masuya is reported to be in the black.
On the day I visited, there was heavy rain in the morning but it was forecasted to clear up by early afternoon, so I intentionally decided on a later lunch time. After having been turned away earlier, I arrived at the restaurant around 12:40 PM. The interior is relatively modern for an izakaya, albeit somewhat sterile-looking. The seating capacity is 36, featuring four counter seats (which weren't being used during lunchtime) and six tables for four plus one table for eight. There were three groups of four people sitting at tables when I arrived. I chose to sit at the available eight-person table.
The lunch menu was simple, consisting of only four items. However, the prices range from 1,300 to 1,500 yen, which is on the higher side compared to the average lunch in this area. The four options included tempura set for 1,500 yen, saikyo-grilled chicken set for 1,300 yen, along with a daily grilled fish and simmered fish set, the details of which were displayed on a wall inside. That day's grilled fish was houbou (a type of flatfish) and the simmered fish was buri daikon (yellowtail and radish). I opted for the grilled fish set for 1,500 yen, as houbou is not commonly featured in regular izakaya lunches.
After about two minutes, I was served an ice-cold brown rice green tea in a glass, which was flavorful and quite pleasant. After waiting another five minutes, my grilled fish set arrived. The main dish was the houbou, served with an assortment of sashimi, two small side dishes, and miso soup, making for an appealing presentation. The houbou was enjoyed with grated daikon and appeared to have been par-cooked before being grilled again, which I noted was a downside. However, despite its somewhat unappealing appearance, the fish was delicate and had a mild flavor. Although it was overcooked, leading to a slightly dry texture, the taste was good, and there was an ample amount of fish meat after carefully deboning it.
The sashimi assortment included buri, salmon, and octopus, which might be common but was served in thick slices of acceptable quality. The side dishes featured what appeared to be simmered buri milt and a pickled mountain vegetable, demonstrating attention to quality, while the miso soup contained cabbage, wakame, and fish bones, offering a marked improvement compared to typical izakaya lunches. Although my expectations were not particularly high for a chain izakaya, I sensed an intention to provide a higher-quality lunch amid the usual fare, and I believe this strategy is not misguided. There were areas for improvement regarding the cooking of the fish, but overall, the cost-performance ratio was not bad.
However, despite my later arrival for lunch, the restaurant was somewhat empty, suggesting that business might not be thriving. The restaurant seems to be facing challenges as it continues to experiment. However, given that they appear to be listening to customer needs, I sincerely hope that they can endure and succeed in the long run.