トントンマン
Recently, an online news report highlighted the annual ranking of prefectures by household gyoza purchasing amounts, which often draws attention. According to the Ministry of Internal Affairs and Communications' Family Income and Expenditure Survey published on February 6, 2024, Hamamatsu City surpassed its rivals, Miyazaki City and Utsunomiya City, to become Japan's top in annual gyoza purchasing for the first time in three years, with a total amount of 4,041 yen. On the morning of February 6, city officials gathered at Hamamatsu City Hall to watch for the survey results, and upon discovering they took the top spot, some staff celebrated with a fist pump. Miyazaki City came in second with 3,497 yen, followed by Utsunomiya City with 3,208 yen. Looking back at the last four years of results, we see a fierce competition:
- 2022: 1st: Miyazaki City 4,053 yen, 2nd: Utsunomiya City 3,764 yen, 3rd: Hamamatsu City 3,435 yen
- 2021: 1st: Miyazaki City 4,184 yen, 2nd: Hamamatsu City 3,728 yen, 3rd: Utsunomiya City 3,129 yen
- 2020: 1st: Hamamatsu City 3,766 yen, 2nd: Utsunomiya City 3,693 yen, 3rd: Miyazaki City 3,670 yen
- 2019: 1st: Utsunomiya City 4,359 yen, 2nd: Hamamatsu City 3,506 yen, 3rd: Kyoto City 2,790 yen
This survey includes fresh and cooked gyoza purchased at supermarkets and takeout specialty shops, but does not account for frozen products or meals from restaurants. The attention brought to such rankings reflects the fact that gyoza has become a beloved national dish.
Inspired by the gyoza discussions, I visited a restaurant located in the Kanda Station West Exit shopping district during lunchtime. The restaurant, "Nikujū Gyoza Seisakujo Dandadan Sakaba," is operated by Dandadan Co., Ltd., part of the NATTY SWANKY Holdings Group. The founders, Yuji Iishi and Tatsuya Tanaka, started their food business in 2001 with a ramen specialty restaurant and a dining bar. A major turning point for the business came in 2011 when they opened their first gyoza-focused izakaya, which gained popularity quickly despite the challenges posed by the Great East Japan Earthquake shortly afterward. The brand has grown to 138 locations, including 81 in Tokyo and others across the Kanto region and beyond.
The specific location I visited is very close to Kanda Station, set in a competitive area featuring several other gyoza spots. The restaurant opened in December 2021 and is now in its third year of operation. I arrived around 11:45 AM, slightly early for lunch, and found myself to be the first customer. The layout includes only table seating, with an unclear number of seats as the official count seems to be inaccurate. Employees exuded great energy while taking orders — their enthusiastic service was almost reminiscent of a cult!
The table menus featured a selection of five lunch set meals, and I chose the "Grilled Gyoza Chashu Lunch" for 900 yen. The regular price for a similar set was 1,065 yen, highlighting the breakfast offerings’ value. After about a 10-minute wait, my meal arrived.
The set included three grilled gyoza and two slices of grilled chashu resting upon shredded cabbage, along with pickled vegetables, a soft-boiled egg, soup, and rice. The gyoza lived up to its name with plenty of flavorful minced pork, although I personally prefer a crispier, golden-brown finish achieved through more oil during cooking, which is a matter of taste. The grilled chashu stole the spotlight with its beautifully crispy outer layer and satisfying heft.
While the soft-boiled egg and soup weren’t standout features, they contributed positively to the meal. Overall, given the lunch price, I felt satisfied with the cost-performance ratio. Although the cooking technique for the gyoza and some aspects of the service could see improvement, I believe these can be addressed. I hope this gyoza restaurant can continue to thrive, playing an essential role in promoting our national dish.