イラマチ男タコ蔵
I hope this message finds you well. It’s been a while since I last wrote, and I’m Iramachi Otoko Takokura. I still visit sushi restaurants at least three times a week, but without any new places piquing my interest, my posts on Tabelog have been stagnant. However, I’ve recently encountered a fantastic new restaurant that compelled me to pick up the pen again. Today, I’m reviewing "Sushi Tanaka," located in the Azabu-Juban and Shirokane area.
The chef, Ryuu Tanaka, is only 30 years old and exudes the aura and customer service of a seasoned veteran. You can feel his quiet determination towards sushi. Whether you're a first-time visitor or a regular, you can expect a warm, welcoming atmosphere. Even someone like me, known as the "Sushi World’s Motherf*cking Waste," is treated kindly, which truly speaks to his character.
Chef Tanaka hails from Amakusa, where his family runs a well-known yakiniku restaurant and livestock business. He moved to Tokyo to pursue a career in dining, working under Shin Suetomi, the owner of Suetomi-style and Maki Bird Shin Kobe, and later trained in sushi under Chef Mouri at Shibuya Sushi Risaki.
Now, let me share my second visit and the dishes I enjoyed. (Please note that due to a typhoon hitting Kyushu during my visit, many of the dishes came from different sources than usual.) Unlike the traditional sushi chef styles that alternate between small plates and sushi, here you’re served all the small plates before moving on to the sushi, which I personally prefer.
**Small Plates:**
- Mozuku: Seaweed from Iwate with ginger. Perfect for summer, it whets the appetite with its acidity.
- Marinated Bonito: From Kesennuma, it’s juicy with a pleasant acidity. A novice would assume heavily fatty bonito is the standard.
- Sardine Roll: A light sardine roll with vegetables. The rolling technique is beautiful and fast, probably neater than a joint rolled by Snoop Dogg.
- Soft-boiled Octopus: Extremely tender, though I personally prefer a bit more texture for added bite.
- Hairy Crab: Its warm, slightly firm texture and the taste of crab vinegar were wonderful. Truly delicious.
- Sawara (Spanish Mackerel): Served hot with radish. Very tasty.
- Black Abalone: It's incredible to get such high-quality abalone in a course priced in the tens of thousands of yen. The cost could very well be at a restaurant charging 35,000 yen per person. The liver sauce with finely chopped pickled onions provided the perfect texture and flavor. This was outstanding—better than the original.
**Sushi:**
The sushi rice is a mix of rice vinegar and red vinegar, cooked to a consistency that evokes a slight texture, partly reminiscent of brown rice. The rice is cooked in two different ways to adjust firmness, intended to increase chewing. I really liked this. While the flavors aren't overwhelmingly sour or salty, Chef Tanaka’s effort and experimentation represent true sushi craftsmanship.
- Kinmedai (Golden Eye Snapper): Wrapped skin inside. Seasoned with kombu, the moist texture and just-right fat content cater to my taste.
- Sanma (Pacific Saury): A 13-tail size, this is a seasonal delight. The bitter liver adds a great balance—truly a sophisticated sushi.
- Horse Mackerel: From Amakusa, sourced directly from local fish markets. The treatment is excellent with days of aging that enhance the flavors.
- Kohada (Gizzard Shad): Lightly marinated, this one from Osaka Bay perfectly complemented the sushi rice.
- Botan Ebi (Sweet Shrimp): This was delicious. The large botan shrimp marinated in shrimp miso, soy sauce, and Shaoxing wine paired perfectly with the sushi rice. The seasoning was exceptional.
- Tuna: From the belly of Canadian tuna, sourced from the trusted dealer Hina. After trying many Canadian tunas recently, I found this one delicious. It's nonsensical to dismiss it just because it’s not local. The red and medium-fat tuna were both marinated, with the red being marinated longer.
- Sea Urchin: High-quality, definitely on the pricier side, which made me chuckle. With two young apprentices and a prime location, I worry about their profit margins, especially given the taste and size of the leaves.
- Anago (Conger Eel): Grilled hot after being braised, this comes from Miyagi. I love eel when it's hot.
- Soup: Using Amakusa’s barley miso, it’s enriched with fish, shrimp, and crab dashi. This was incredibly delicious—if the woman I briefly met the night before made this for breakfast, I’d undoubtedly want to spend the night with her again.
- Soup: Using sweet shrimp, this was a fluffy egg creation.
With this number of dishes and their quality, all under challenging conditions due to the weather, the price for one person was 19,000 yen (including tax). Having visited Toyosu Market and established connections with various dealers, I’m quite aware of most seafood and sea urchin costs. Honestly, if one were to calculate properly, I’d guess the running costs would be between 28,000 to 35,000 yen in order to remain viable.
I'm truly excited for Chef Tanaka’s future success as a craftsman. His unwavering effort and dedication deserve maximum respect.