中目のやっこさん
Located just a short distance from Omori Station in a covered shopping arcade, "Sushi-dokoro Shishi" quietly stands out. This restaurant utilizes the "Fujita Tuna," often referred to as the elusive tuna. The location is about a 3-minute walk from JR Omori Station, situated in the arcade called Milpa. After climbing the steep stairs of the building, you will find this establishment.
As you proceed through the entrance and down the corridor, you’ll be greeted by a simple and calming space featuring a wooden counter that seats only nine, illuminated by gray walls. The owner and two staff members work together seamlessly. The menu consists solely of an omakase course. On Tabelog, there are typically two course options available, and I opted for the most popular standard course. What I experienced is detailed below:
"Omakase Course - 8,800 yen"
- Chawanmushi with soybean and ikura
- White eggplant with onion ponzu
- Cooked tuna sinew in a jelly
- Dashi-maki tamago
- Squid
- Japanese sandfish
- Sweet shrimp
- Red clam
- Sweet boiled red clam liver
- Snow crab croquette
- Lean tuna
- Marinated tuna
- Medium fatty tuna
- Five mushroom dobin-mushi
- Striped jack
- Young horse mackerel
- Flatfish
- Small bowl of stockfish
- Sakekasu soup
- Sea eel
- Tsukudani roll
- Warabi mochi and vanilla ice cream
Beverages:
- Bottle of beer / Akaboshi medium bottle
- Chiyo no Hikari Hiyaki / Chiyo no Hikari Sake Brewery (Niigata, Myoko City)
- Ayumasa Junmai Sake / Ayumasa Sake Brewery (Niigata, Myoko City)
- Sabineko Rock Gin-Sabi / Inomata Sake Brewery (Niigata, Itoigawa City)
*All served in half a go, significantly enhancing the cost performance.
The Fujita Tuna truly shines in this establishment! The owner primarily prepares the sushi, while the assistant staff brings out the starters. Despite being a standard course, there were about seven appetizers, each presented with a unique twist. The chawanmushi at the beginning uses soybean, topped with low-temperature-cooked ikura, setting the stage for a delightful experience.
This was my first encounter with Fujita Tuna through the cooked jelly. The croquette featured snow crab combined with uni and crab miso, topped with a paprika sauce, creating an enjoyable layering of flavors. The sushi included about 12 pieces, and the portion sizes were small and easy to eat. The sushi rice, sweet and flavorful, provided a soft sourness that highlights the toppings, intended to dissolve rather than be chewed.
Among the sushi, the tuna’s presence is unmistakable. In the middle of the course, I was treated to a burst of red, marinated, and medium fatty tuna, thoroughly enjoyable. The thick slices of red fish, with a hint of iron scent, melted gently in my mouth, offering rich umami. The marinated sushi was incredibly sweet, and its flavor increased with every bite.
Following that, the medium fatty tuna had a delicate texture that gently caressed the palate. The nuanced sweetness combined with the rice's acidity created an exquisite taste, leaving a pleasant aftertaste. The tuna's year-round flavor and core essence were beautifully highlighted in the experience at Sushi-dokoro Shishi.
Interestingly, the sweet shrimp, a product of the owner's pride from Niigata, elevated the meal with its umami flavor, enhanced by dipping in shrimp miso. Furthermore, the impressive selection of sake includes about 30 different types of shochu and boasts a robust line of Niigata sake without being fixed, offering something new with each visit.
We concluded the meal with freshly made warabi mochi and vanilla ice cream, culminating in a satisfactory experience. The 8,800 yen course was incredibly fulfilling, leaving a strong impression of the tuna's deliciousness, as expected. The next level of course offers even more dishes, promising an extensive experience.
By incorporating local ingredients and specialties from Niigata, the sushi restaurant exudes its unique character. After gaining experience in traditional Japanese cuisine and kaiseki in Europe, the owner opened "Sushi-dokoro Shishi" upon returning to Japan. This is a place to look forward to, leveraging its individuality for future success.
□ Sushi-dokoro Shishi
Location: 1-10-10 Omori Kita, Ota-ku, Tokyo, 2nd Floor
Phone: 03-6625-8306
Hours: 17:00-22:30
Closed: Sundays, public holidays, and irregular days
Duration: Approximately 2 hours
Total bill: 12,540 yen (tax included)
Reservation: Online reservation via Tabelog a day in advance.