蓼喰人
I recently heard that a new soba restaurant opened near Itabashi Station. It's a nighttime-only place focused on soba and drinks, which suits my taste perfectly. Since it's been about a month since its opening in mid-March, I decided it was time to visit, aiming to arrive just after the 5 PM opening. The location is straightforward, right in front of the east exit of Itabashi Station in a commercial building on the first floor. There are still congratulatory flowers in the entrance.
Upon entering, I noticed a counter with six seats in front of the open kitchen on the left, and about fourteen seats across four tables on the right, with a glass-enclosed soba-making area at the back. I was seated at the center of the counter. At this point, there were two staff members in the kitchen—what appeared to be the owner and another chef—and a young man attending to the front.
As soon as I sat down, I noticed tablets placed at each table for ordering. Although there were menus available, most customers were using the tablets, which seemed to be malfunctioning at the start. After trying to fix it without success, the staff brought over a working one from another table. I ordered a beer (Asahi Super Dry) right away. The starter offered was “boiled firefly squid and konjac,” which was delightful and tasted great. The menu indicated a one-drink policy and a seating charge of 400 yen, which seemed to cover the starter.
It became clear that this place is aimed at being a 'soba izakaya' where you can enjoy drinks alongside soba. I was intrigued by the 'today’s recommendations' for sides and eventually managed to use the tablet to order four dishes spaced out over time.
- “Sashimi Trio of the Day”: This included scallop, skipjack tuna, and marinated mackerel, showcasing impressive knife skills with good garnishing. The fresh wasabi accompaniment was a nice touch, especially the skipjack tuna, which had just the right amount of fattiness.
- “Duck Roasted Slices”: Six slices of what seemed to be low-temperature cooked duck. They were tender and juicy, with a subtle seasoning that allowed the duck's flavor to shine.
- “Natural Yam Tempura”: This is made from sticky natural yam shaped into bite-sized pieces and fried with seaweed underneath. They had a chewy texture and strong flavor, even enjoyed with just salt.
- “Boiled Octopus and Organic Vegetable with Vinegar Miso”: Sliced octopus with boiled greens (I later learned they were urui and wild rapeseed) and bamboo shoots, served with vinegar miso. The combination of the juicy octopus and the crispness of the rapeseed was enjoyable, complementing the vinegar miso perfectly.
All the dishes demonstrated a higher level of preparation than typical izakaya fare, reflecting the chef's considerable skill. I also ordered two types of sake using the tablet, which displayed images of the brands. When the order was placed, staff poured from a one-liter bottle into a stylish matching cup right in front of us.
- “Kinkonichi Junmai Sake”: With a soft mouthfeel and clear flavor, it was quite enjoyable.
- “Ura Masamune Reka”: It had a refreshing taste followed by a hint of umami, perfectly complementing the food.
I ordered a basic “zaru soba” (cold soba noodles) to finish. Their ten-grain soba, touted as 100% buckwheat, was well-made with no uneven cuts or breaking. The aroma was pleasant, and the texture was decent with a good slurp potential, generously served. The dipping sauce had a good balance of flavor, though it was somewhat light, and was poured directly into the cup instead of a separate pitcher. I initially sipped it without fully immersing the soba, but found the flavor lacking and ended up with most of the sauce remaining as the portion was substantial.
On the other hand, the soba-yu (noodle water) was notably rich and creamy. I tried adding it to the remaining dipping sauce, but its thickness didn't provide a clean finish. I would appreciate if they could reconsider the balance between the dipping sauce and the soba, as well as the consistency of the soba-yu.
Reflecting on the meal, the quality of the side dishes was quite high, with prices slightly on the expensive side yet reasonable given the quality. Their selection of sake was also commendable. While I had minor issues with the dipping sauce and soba-yu, the soba itself was satisfactory. The total bill came close to 9,000 yen, which was quite a bit considering I ordered various items.
There were some delays with the service, but overall it was good. I do have a few concerns. The tablet ordering might be manageable for younger customers, but those seeking a soba izakaya experience are often older and might find it confusing. Simple operational errors can lead to mistakes since it’s harder to gauge other customers' orders, making it difficult to time orders correctly.
Another issue is the restaurant's location. Given that it's marketed as a 'soba izakaya' with a one-drink policy and a standard cover charge, being in a highly trafficked area right by the station might mislead passersby into thinking it's just an ordinary soba shop. On the day I visited, a family with a young child walked in and appeared puzzled by the menu options. Since it had only been a month since opening, they likely need more time to establish their routine.
Although it may be too early to give a full review, I enjoyed the variety of dishes and the quality of the soba confirmed my impression. It’s undoubtedly a strong contender, and I look forward to seeing how they develop moving forward.