鷲尾★ジロー
I usually write reviews about ramen, but occasionally I will review the "Hokkaido Centennial Dining Series". This is a record of visiting century-old restaurants in Hokkaido. The 9th installment of the Centennial Dining Series is "Soba Restaurant Maruminami" in Hakodate. It was founded in Meiji 24 (1891) and this year marks its 130th anniversary. It is the third oldest soba restaurant in Hokkaido, following "Higashiya" in Kushiro and "Maruki" in Sapporo, and the second oldest dining establishment in Hakodate after "Gotoen". The restaurant is known for being where Ito Takejiro, the second generation owner of the oldest soba restaurant in Hokkaido, "Higashiya", trained.
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◎ Enjoying everyday soba in the historic city of Hakodate
In the fall of 2021, after the lifting of the state of emergency due to the new coronavirus, I finally made my long-awaited business trip to Hakodate. Hakodate, a city of history, is filled with charming shops and there are many places I want to visit. Furthermore, I recently discovered that my ancestors on my mother's side are from southern Hokkaido, which has further piqued my interest in the city of Hakodate.
Among the soba restaurants in Hakodate that still exist, the one with the longest history is "Soba Restaurant Maruminami (Marunan Honten)". I decided to stop by this long-established restaurant for lunch today. The restaurant is located in the Odori Shopping Street in front of Hakodate Station. The parking lot is located nearby at "Paraka", with a fee of 200 yen for 60 minutes. You also receive a discount ticket worth 100 yen from the restaurant.
Just after 1:30 PM, I entered the restaurant while looking up at the wooden sign that read "Fresh Soba". I made it just in time for the last order at 2:00 PM. As I looked at the menu again, I noticed a wide range of dishes from traditional classics to creative cuisine, despite being an old-established restaurant. One item that caught my eye was the "Sake Appetizer Set", a set menu for the appetizers that come with soba. Since I came by car and have work afterwards, I decided to save this for another night.
Today, I ordered the "Nimai Seiro" (920 yen). It comes with "Kashiwa Nuki" that has been passed down through generations at this restaurant. The "Nimai Seiro" includes both "Mori" (dipping soba) and "Zaru" (cold soba), and the "Kashiwa Nuki" is a dish where the soba is removed from the kashiwa (chicken and leek) soup. I recently learned that "Kashiwa Nuki" is a specialty of Kushiro. After ordering, it took about 7-8 minutes for the two seiro trays and kashiwa nuki to arrive.
First, I tried the "Zaru" soba. I dipped the soba in wasabi, then in the soba broth, and slurped it up with nori. Slurp, slurp, slurp. Hmm, when I chewed a bit and swallowed, I could taste the sweetness of the soba. The soba flour here is from Kitami-cho in Sorachi, and it is ground with a stone mill. I believe it is a 20/80 blend. The soba broth, while rich, has a gentle flavor with a subtle taste of bonito. Next, I tried the "Kashiwa Nuki". Wow, this is delicious. It's my first time trying just the soup of "nuki", but the deliciousness of the broth quickly spreads through my stomach. The chicken in the kashiwa has a nice layer of fat and is easy to eat. Before I knew it, I had finished the "Zaru". Next, I tried the "Mori" on the lower tray. The only difference between "Zaru" and "Mori" is the presence of nori, and I heard that "Mori Soba" was originally created in the late Meiji era to add a touch of luxury by sprinkling nori on top of the soba. However, two trays of soba are quite a lot, and it's quite a volume. After finishing the soba, I enjoyed the soba-yu (soba water) to settle my slightly bloated stomach. Finally, I finished with fragrant soba tea.
Despite being the second oldest restaurant in Hakodate, it doesn't feel very traditional, both in taste and atmosphere. It's an impression of a restaurant that blends into daily life. The scene of casually stopping by, quickly eating, and leaving, that is the scenery of a town soba shop that has continued for 130 years. Thank you for the meal. (Visited on November 10, 2021)
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<Addendum>
The history of Hokkaido soba cutting dates back to the late Edo period, when it was said that the Matsumae domain ===========