川井 潤
Inspired by the script by Kaori Koyama titled "Yudo," I decided to visit a nearby onsen, Hakone's "Hanamon," for the first time in a while. However, it seems that good accommodations are fully booked everywhere. Of course, my first choice in Gora was also completely full. Before dinner, I took a bath. Photography is strictly prohibited in the bathing area. The layout is compact, featuring several types of baths on one floor. There is a large public bath, a jet bath, a sleeping bath, a cave bath, two open-air baths, a sauna, and more, making it quite enjoyable to spend time there. After soaking for about an hour, I headed to dinner.
Dinner was served in a semi-private room separated by modern bamboo blinds. I started with an apple sake for the aperitif and quenched my thirst with a Yebisu draft beer, then moved on to the first course. "Kumiage Yuba" was presented with a sweet sauce made from black sugar that nicely complemented the wasabi.
For the "Hassun," the dish included:
① Simmered bamboo shoots in a pot and tempura of taranome (bamboo shoots), which was cold – something unavoidable in a ryokan (inn).
② Sweet-simmered soybeans in a red masu box – a comforting dish.
③ Lily bulb wrapped in a cloth – cutely shaped and sweet.
I thought it might be better to eat this one last.
④ Diced daikon radish topped with goji berries – a bite-sized dish to enjoy together.
⑤ Seaweed-marinated nanohana (rape blossoms) – a spring-like dish that lifted my spirits.
⑥ Anago (conger eel) sushi – while it didn’t compare to the flavor of the one from Asakusa 468, it added necessary color to the plate.
⑦ Salted shrimp – a delight for shrimp lovers; just ordinary but fine.
For the "Owan," there was "Clam Clear Soup" – with wakame seaweed, suruna (a type of edible plant), and Kyoto carrot, scented with yuzu peel… The dashi exceeded my expectations and was delicious, so I was pleased with this.
The "Sashimi" offered wasn’t particularly high expectations given that it's mountainous Hakone, but being near Odawara Port, I held hope that it might be surprisingly good. The "Scallops marinated in kelp" were rich in flavor and absolutely delicious. The "Bluefin Tuna" and "Grilled Spanish Mackerel" were average but tasty.
For the "Yakimono," there was "Nishikyo Grilled Oil Flounder" – garnished with shrimp taro, chrysanthemum greens, and sweet-sour lotus root… This oil flounder was rich in fat as its name suggests. It had a somewhat bland flavor that didn't quite align with my tastes.
For the "Nimono," there was "Homemade sesame tofu with aarae fry" – sesame tofu wrapped in breadcrumbs and fried, topped with "Shark Fin Sauce," releasing steam as it arrived. It resembled a Chinese crispy dish. It was really delicious, combining the flavors of the sesame tofu, the crunchiness from the coating, and the somewhat sticky sauce, making it the standout dish of the day… I wanted more!
For the "Shinoki," there was a "Yuzu Sorbet" – while it had more volume than a palate cleanser and felt more like dessert, it was delicious and a pleasant surprise, indicating good service.
The "Nakazara" dish featured "Sōshū Beef Steak" – a brand of beef from Kanagawa Prefecture. I haven't heard much about it. It wasn’t particularly impressive, but it had decent flavor and was pleasingly edible, served with vegetables like onion, burdock, pumpkin, red daikon, and lettuce.
For the "Tomozakana," there was "Mozuku Vinegar" – which contained "Uruoi" (a type of wild green) and "Shiro miru clam." This acted as a refreshing palate cleanser after the fatty dishes, cleansing my mouth with acidity.
For the "Shokuji," there was "Rice topped with salmon belly and soy sauce-marinated salmon roe." Here came a delightful surprise: the rice was incredibly tasty. The rice, slightly firmer than usual, along with the belly and the marinated roe, was excellent, but the rice was exceptional. I wanted to take some home! (laughs). There were also pickles (like Chinese cabbage, senmaizuke, and yam) and a red miso soup with shijimi clams and green vegetables (also delicious), which made it easy to eat quickly. When I asked for a second helping, only the belly was served. Apparently, the marinated roe is only provided in the first serving… but I was fine with the pickles!
The last dessert was fruit… strawberries, melon, and wine jelly served in an "Orange Bowl," soothing my stomach and mind. The standout was definitely the delicious rice. All the little issues faded away. And yes, the "Sesame Tofu with aarae fry" was also incredibly delicious. With these delightful dishes and the good onsen, I'll certainly find motivation for the days ahead. I should take a morning bath too!