Geric Plankton
The road to Kyoto is challenging. As a tourist, no matter how much you walk or explore, you cannot truly touch the essence of this city. Kyoto, the millennium capital, has continuously preserved the essence of Japanese aesthetics, enduring various natural disasters and wars, and has become a renowned tourist destination in recent years, even enduring the challenges of the COVID-19 pandemic. The slogan "Let's go to Kyoto" by JR has further spread the essence of this city nationwide, attracting people as a place of solace. For me, Kyoto is where philosopher Kitaro Nishida walked the path of philosophy. In the morning, I passed through the almost deserted Kyoto Imperial Palace and arrived at Shimogamo Shrine before noon. My purpose was to visit the movable residence called Hojoan, believed to have been built by the revered Kamo no Chomei about 800 years ago. However, my purpose was shattered as it was being relocated. Undeterred, I continued on the Philosopher's Walk. Along the way, I encountered the vast campus of Kyoto University and scattered groups of students. The time was exactly noon. My body, having only drunk mineral water since morning, began to feel the sun's strong rays through the backpack on my back. I could have eaten at a lunch spot filled with students. Nevertheless, the Philosopher's Walk beckoned me, pushing aside the sun, sweat, and hunger. Finally, I saw a sign for the Philosopher's Walk. The road abruptly ended, and a still waterway greeted me. The Philosopher's Walk connects Ginkaku-ji and Nanzen-ji, spanning about 2km. As I descended south, the serene mountains loomed closer, and a cool, stern air began to dominate the surroundings. A strong, overpowering smell hit my nose, unmistakably the lingering scent of perfume left behind by a group of French-speaking tourists. It was not surprising to pass by many restaurants and souvenir shops catering to inbound tourists. Most of the bustling people were Western foreigners. Of course, Nishida Kitaro's time of walking the path was before the war, so encountering such scenes, overpowering scents, and foreign tourists would have been unimaginable to him. By the time I finished the Philosopher's Walk, hunger and fatigue struck simultaneously. Vowing to visit in a different season, I hailed a taxi. It was past 2 pm. The Shijo Bridge was filled with Western tourists as usual, or even more so in the current era of the COVID-19 pandemic. One of Kyoto's representatives is Nishin Soba. As a soba lover, it is an essential delicacy in Kyoto. Although the main branch of Nishin Soba Matsuba Honten was closed, I felt relieved to find that the Nishin Soba Matsuba Kitate was open across the street. The right side of the counter was filled with foreign tourists. Guided by the friendly staff, I was seated at a large table on the left side. The well-kept cleanliness and calm atmosphere in the restaurant were comforting. I desired a beer. Then, I ordered the Nishin Soba (1,650 yen). The beer circulated through my body, providing a refreshing and exhilarating drinking experience, welcoming the tired body. Although there were few customers due to the time, the foreign tourists occupying the counter seemed to show no signs of finishing their meals, instead, new dishes kept being served, creating an atmosphere of a small party. "Thank you for waiting," said the female staff with a smile as she brought the tray. The meticulously crafted Nishin Soba, refined through careful consideration, was truly the pinnacle of Kyoto's ingredients and culinary skills. The sweet and savory flavor of the herring nestled in the depths of the thin, firm noodles, combined with the perfected broth. This taste, preserved for over 160 years, truly represents the essence of Kyoto's cuisine.