Bathrooms, toilets, and washrooms shared in a ryokan were common half a century ago throughout Japan, but nowadays, most accommodations are in minshuku or pensions. Moreover, finding a place to stay for less than 4000 yen including tax, even without meals, is rare. Rider houses and share houses exist, but there are only a few traditional ryokans left. In this nostalgic setting, I stayed at Asahi Ryokan in Fukuchiyama City, Kyoto Prefecture, as a base for exploring Tango and Tanba in mid-November.
- Room only per night: 4000 yen (tax included)
- Breakfast (optional): 700 yen
The breakfast cost of 700 yen didn't feel particularly cheap compared to the 4000 yen room rate, but all the dishes, handcrafted by the landlady, warmed both my stomach and heart. The flavors were typically light, as is common in Kyoto, but the rice in the rice cooker was more than enough, making seconds hard to resist. The meat and potato stew cooked in dashi broth and the boiled lawrensia leaves left a lasting impression. And, as expected in Kyoto, the pickles were delicious. I was able to spend three memorable days in Fukuchiyama, staying in this old-fashioned ryokan.
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