cocoro-ma-shie
Admired traditional ryokan, Mr. Izutsu Yasushi, is highly regarded for his cooking, and we excitedly made our way from our room to the counter seats at 7:00 pm. Since it was a private booking that day, we had the luxurious situation of having Mr. Izutsu all to ourselves, almost feeling like it was too extravagant. The beautiful ikebana displayed in the counter area was created by a well-known master of the art of flower arrangement. The soft lighting was beautiful and helped to calm our hearts. We had already enjoyed three glasses of draft beer before arriving at this place, so we decided to start with sake. We were allowed to choose our sake cups from a variety of options and left the sake selection up to Mr. Izutsu, who would bring out the appropriate ones with each dish. The first dish was a calligraphy piece by Mr. Izutsu's wife, with the phrase "Somin shorai no shison nari" written on it. It tells the story of how Somin shorai offered a meal made of millet to the deity Susano-no-mikoto when he traveled to the southern sea, and in return, Susano-no-mikoto promised that those who carried a talisman with the phrase on it would be protected from epidemics. It was a phrase that evoked both Kyoto and the presence of epidemics. We took the calligraphy piece home as our amulet. Beneath the calligraphy piece was the first dish, which paired perfectly with the sake. We were definitely sake thieves from the first dish. The next dish featured "anago," a summer delicacy in Kyoto. We were thrilled to hear the sound of the bones being cut right in front of us. The dish was finished with a mist sprayed into the bowl to signify that it was a safe vessel that no one had touched. The delicate broth, the plump and fatty anago with plum paste, winter melon, and a generous serving of junsai, all served in a beautiful bowl, made for a delightful combination. The next dish was a sashimi platter. The sashimi was served on a bed of finely shaved ice with lotus stems, hirame, isaki, and kamatsuo. The lotus stem was a surprising addition and could be eaten as well. The dish was accompanied by soy sauce, wasabi, salt, and sudachi. Of course, the sake continued to flow with each dish. The following dish featured red grilled pepper, shrimp tempura, and anago, if I remember correctly. The vibrant red against the green maple leaves was stunning. The dish was followed by a cold simmered dish with somen noodles, pumpkin, and eggplant. The black lacquered paper bowl was surprisingly light. The finale was a clay pot rice dish with ayu fish and grains of sansho pepper. The ayu fish was carefully mixed with the rice before serving, and it was a truly satisfying end to the meal. The dish was accompanied by red miso soup, shredded mountain pepper, and pickles. We couldn't resist having seconds of this delicious dish. The dessert consisted of two types of sweets - a refreshing citrus ice confection and high-quality yokan. If time and stomach allowed, we would have loved to go for another round. It was truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience to have Mr. Izutsu Yasushi all to ourselves. Thank you for the wonderful hospitality and the fantastic dinner experience.