中崎 健二
Hello. Recently, I have been visiting Italian and French restaurants, but I had never visited a specialty (high-end) tempura restaurant before! Initially, I was thinking of visiting Mr. Kondo, who often appears on TV, but the high threshold and price made me hesitate. Today, I visited my first tempura restaurant, "Edomae Shinsaku" in Ningyocho. I had watched Ikko-san's video and wanted to visit. Although it seemed quite difficult to make a reservation, I received an invitation from a follower! I am really grateful for the invitation, just like the previous time at Luogo. Since it was my first visit, I did some research. The head chef, Mr. Nishimura Shinsaku, is from Nagano Prefecture and is currently 37 years old. He aspired to be a musician from a young age and moved to Tokyo at the age of 16 without going to high school. In his 20s, he became interested in art and engaged in various activities such as exhibiting his own works and designing. At the age of 27, he was captivated by the tempura of Mr. Tetsuya Hayashi at "Mikawa Koreyama" and visited more than 100 times to study diligently. Without any apprenticeship experience, he stepped into the world of tempura. He started cooking at the age of 27 and surprised everyone. He opened Edomae Shinsaku in 2016 and moved to Ningyocho in May 2022, earning a Michelin star since 2019. He also shares information on Instagram and even accepts requests for cancellations. His unique way of frying tempura is interesting. Instead of frying, he steams, dehydrates, and bakes the ingredients to bring out their goodness. By using a cooking method called the Maillard reaction, he browns the ingredients to make them fragrant, and by frying at a low temperature, he achieves a moist finish. He has a strong commitment to the batter. He stores the flour at -60°C, sifts it to make it snow-like, and pours it into a bowl to increase the surface area. He meticulously calculates the ratio of water, eggs, and flour, as well as how to beat them at that time. The batter is the most important part of tempura. It affects how the heat is applied. If the batter is not good, no matter what you do, you won't get the desired finish. Lower temperatures apply more heat, making the skin crispy like grilling. The flesh is moist while dehydrating, giving a cooked-like texture with a rich taste and aftertaste. He sees himself more as an artist or musician than a craftsman. He feels something close to music when he ages the fish, cuts it, prepares the flour, coats it, and fries the tempura. Mr. Nishimura loves alcohol, and the menu includes a wide selection of sake and wine. The restaurant has only 8 counter seats, and currently, they operate only one dinner service. The service starts promptly at 7:00 p.m., so I made sure not to be late. I got off at Ningyocho Station on the Asakusa Line and headed to the restaurant. It's been quite a while since I've been to Ningyocho, and it's my first time at night. I met the follower at the first floor of the building and took the elevator to the 6th floor. When the door opened, there were already customers waiting. The staff kindly guided us when the entrance opened. I sat at the counter and greeted Mr. Nishimura. His voice was very clear, and I felt his determination. According to the follower, today is Mr. Nishimura's 38th birthday! I started with a small bottle of Ebisu beer. After all, tempura and beer go well together. Due to budget constraints, I kept the alcohol to a minimum today... Radish with grated daikon was served first. I was surprised at how delicious it was when I poured the tempura sauce over it, and it could even serve as a snack on its own. By the way, I had all the tempura with salt only. I kept eating the tempura sauce and radish as a chopstick rest. Now, the start of my first tempura course in life! The prawn: The inside was slightly rare with a good texture, and the more I chewed, the more the seafood flavor...