kasuganomichi
Located across from my favorite restaurant "Sushi Kawano" on Kitaoji Street, this shop has caught my eye for a while. It stands quietly on a narrow street connecting Shimogamo Nakadori and Kitaoji Street. After reading a review from a respected reviewer, I decided to visit for the first time. On a cold winter night, I went with a colleague, without a reservation. There was only one customer already seated, who seemed like a regular. Today, the head chef, who appeared to be the original master, was an older gentleman. He looked very honest and wore a blue apron that suited him well. We ordered a few items a la carte. We asked the head chef for today's recommended sashimi, and he suggested tuna and ark shell. My colleague, who likes white fish, ordered squid and flounder. I had sweet potato shochu on the rocks, and my colleague had beer. The cozy atmosphere inside the small shop was very warm. The regular customer was a quite dandy old man, who kept asking the head chef about the timing to eat the grilled mackerel wrapped in magnolia leaves. Each time, the head chef replied, "Not yet" or "Just a little longer." The good smell of charcoal and magnolia leaf miso drifted towards us from the tabletop stove. The sashimi arrived. The ark shell and tuna had a nice color and were delicious. Next was grilled mackerel. I got excited when I saw the same stove brought over to grill five mackerels carefully in front of us. The finishing touch was skewering the mackerel heads on a net, which allowed us to eat them from the head. This Honmoro, a unique species from Lake Biwa that is decreasing in catch, is a precious fish. It can be made into tempura, but grilling over charcoal is the best way to enjoy it. The slight bitterness when biting into the head was evident. As we enjoyed the mackerel, we started chatting with the regular customer and the head chef. To be honest, if a female customer had walked in at that moment, she might have been taken aback by our conversation. We had a great time. My colleague suggested going to a nearby ramen shop next time, so we finished with fried oysters. The fried oysters were also outstanding. The fine batter, perfectly crispy texture, flavorful sauce with sesame and miso, and carefully prepared vegetables on the side made it a flawless dish. Shops like this truly support Kyoto's food culture, which is reassuring. With this kind of quality, I would feel safe ordering the chef's choice course. Before leaving the shop, I shook hands with the regular customer and received a business card from the head chef, feeling very satisfied. A return visit is definitely on the cards.