maru5585
It is not certain when this place was established, but it is rumored to have been founded in the 1980s and has been in business for over 30 years. In the Iidabashi area, a famous long-standing restaurant called "Bizentei" closed its doors in March after a long 46-year history, which may not be comparable, but this place has also been supported for a long time and is considered a top-notch establishment. Feeling a sudden craving for the "Chinese soba" from this old-fashioned restaurant, I visited for the first time in about 15 years. When I arrived at 12:35 on a weekday, there was no line, and there were about 5 customers already seated in the 11-seat counter area. Perhaps due to its not-so-great location, it seems like a place known only to a select few. Orders are taken verbally and payment is made afterwards. I hesitated a bit on the popular "konbu ramen," so I opted for the "chashu ramen" priced at 750 yen. The default "Chinese soba" at 550 yen is incredibly cheap even for a non-central location. The husband and wife who run the place maintain a perfect balance - the reserved husband and the friendly wife. Customers come and go continuously, and more than half of the seats are always occupied. In about 5 minutes, the "chashu ramen" was served. While it looks like a typical "Chinese soba," it features four thick slices of pork shoulder chashu that immediately catch the eye. Other toppings include seaweed, bamboo shoots, and chopped green onions, making for an extremely simple composition. The clear soup, made with a base of chicken bones and vegetables like onions and even apples, is full of deep umami flavor that you wouldn't find in just any local Chinese restaurant. Though likely using some seasonings, the soup is made with a meticulous attention to extracting flavors that is characteristic of a specialized "Chinese soba" shop. The soup is not oily, probably derived solely from the soup itself, and while the soy sauce flavor is strong, it is smooth and easy to drink without any sharp edges. The saltiness may be a bit on the stronger side, but it's not distracting. The noodles are from "Sanmatsuya Seimen," a noodle maker in Minami-Senju, and are slightly thick and wavy, with a light color. They are boiled quite firm, more on the chewy side than the soft and chewy side, presenting a unique and delicious texture. I remember the noodles being more soft and chewy in the past, and I'm not sure if they changed the water content or the boiling process. For those used to noodles that blend well with modern soups, this may feel a bit off, but the slightly crispy texture is refreshing and pairs well with the soup. The chashu is made from thick slices of pork shoulder that are tender and mildly seasoned, simply delicious. The bamboo shoots are also tender and visually ordinary but taste delicious. This "Chinese soba" is like the original form you should return to when you're tired of modern ramen, but the noodles, soup, and chashu each slightly exceed the level of "ordinary," creating a unique and cohesive dish. While I usually don't use table condiments, I found that adding pepper to this ramen enhanced the flavor remarkably in the second half. For those who are not particularly fond of ramen, this may be lumped together with the "ordinary" ramen from local Chinese restaurants, but ramen enthusiasts will appreciate the difference between "ordinary" and "extraordinary." It's completely different from the "Shina soba" at "Bizentei," and I appreciate the unique qualities of each. Ramen is truly deep and complex, I realized.