After9
"I want to eat delicious yakitori!" Not just any delicious yakitori, but the kind of yakitori that I strongly desire from traditional yakitori restaurants in Tokyo like "Isehiro" or "Torishige" in Shinbashi! Both of these places are known for their similar yakitori courses, with Isehiro established in 1921 and Torishige in 1971. Torishige probably drew inspiration from the long history of Isehiro! There are still many restaurants that follow in the footsteps of these establishments, mostly concentrated in the city center. However, "Torihide" in Akabane has always intrigued me, even though it's not a place I have any connection to. After making a reservation, I decided to visit! It took me an hour and a half by Tobu Bus and Seibu Bus from my home to reach Akabane. From Akabane Station, I walked east, entered the LaLa Garden arcade (Akabane Suzuran-dori shopping street), turned right after one block, and found the restaurant down a narrow alley to the left of McDonald's! I was seated at the counter near the entrance and started with a glass of draft beer. In the cold January wind, I downed the chilled beer in a frosted mug... Now, onto the food. The basic option is a 10-skewer course, but they also offer a 5-skewer course for those with smaller appetites. I opted for the 10-skewer course, which includes liver, heart, gizzard, quail egg, negima (chicken and scallion skewer), dango (chicken meatball), skin, thigh meat, bonjiri (tail meat), and tebasaki (chicken wing) skewers, along with salad, grated daikon radish, and chicken broth soup for ¥2,800. The dressing on the salad caught my attention, resembling the orange-colored onion dressing used at Torishige and "Kokekokko" in Los Angeles. However, it seemed to have a less sweet and more salty taste, possibly reflecting the owner's preference. The appetizer was a macaroni salad with a mayonnaise base and a hint of soy sauce, which was quite flavorful. The grated daikon radish with quail egg was an interesting addition. The head chef, a robust man, skillfully grilled the yakitori skewers in the kitchen. I noticed a difference in the composition of the grilled items compared to Torishige's signature course. The absence of the "sasami" skewer, which is usually the first skewer at Torishige, was replaced by a "hatsu" skewer. The liver was cooked to a perfect medium-rare, offering a tender texture and a smoky flavor. The gizzard provided a chewy texture and a rich taste. The negima skewer, with shishito pepper and shiitake mushroom sandwiched between chicken, was a delightful combination. The tsukune (chicken meatball) didn't use any binding agents and showcased various cuts of chicken, giving it a crunchy texture and authentic flavor. The skin skewer could have been crispier, and the yakitori course continued with items like heart, thigh meat, bonjiri, and tebasaki. The tebasaki skewer could have been crispier on the skin side. I requested the quail egg skewer, which was served last, and it was deliciously grilled. The head chef's bold and skillful grilling techniques were evident throughout the meal. The overall seasoning was well-balanced, and the yakitori was flavorful. The final touch was a refreshing glass of Hoppy with a frozen shochu ball, a nostalgic drink that complemented the meal perfectly.