蓼喰人
I have visited this place several times since it was called "Seizan" and have always had a good impression of the soba and sake enjoyed in the underground space. After the management changed and it became "Shinzan," I visited once, but later due to the influence of the coronavirus, they switched to a fully reservation-only course menu in the evenings. It seemed that they were open for lunch as well, but since it is more suitable to relax with a drink, it was difficult for me to visit. Upon researching, I found out that on Saturdays, they have continuous business hours from afternoon to evening and reservations are not required. Coincidentally, there was a matinee concert at the nearby NHK Hall on a Saturday, so I decided to visit after confirming that they were open a few days prior. I arrived around 3:30 pm, and it was my first time entering in the daylight. A young male staff member who answered the phone remembered my voice when I entered through the large sliding door. After waiting a bit for the table setting, I was led to a seat in the back of the first-floor area this time. It was my first time on the first floor, and the space was not very large, with a tranquil atmosphere created by the abundant indirect lighting, and each table was separated for a calm atmosphere. Modern jazz was still quietly playing in the background. I started with a "Kaku Highball" instead of beer. For the appetizer, I received a "Three kinds of appetizers" on a long rectangular plate with "Shirako Ponzu Jelly," "Sea urchin tofu and taro arrangement," and "Oil-pickled oysters" arranged in small dishes, accompanied by a branch of autumn leaves. All of them were of high-quality traditional Japanese cuisine, and it was enjoyable to savor them carefully. I then moved on to sake and started with a 1-go of "Gakki Masamune" from Fukushima. It was served in a thin glass beaker-shaped glass container, with a stylish glass accompanying it. It had a fruity taste with a solid flavor lingering afterwards, providing quite a satisfying feeling. I added two more dishes. The "Spicy Chicken" was lightly blanched and thinly sliced chicken breast mixed with grated daikon radish seasoned with soy sauce, and served with grated radish. It had a good balance of flavors with sesame seeds and yuzu zest, making it delicious. The other dish that caught my eye was the "Grilled dish of the day," which turned out to be "Grilled miso-marinated yellowtail." The yellowtail fillet was skewered and grilled until golden, then miso was spread on the surface and seared to finish in a teriyaki-style. The miso seemed to be slightly sweetened with Nishikyo miso, and it paired well with the juicy yellowtail. The grilled Manjyuji chili pepper on the side was also well done. I also wanted to try the "Coarsely ground sobagaki," so I ordered it. Many bamboo grove-style restaurants serve two types of sobagaki, and this place also had a finer, smoother type, but I chose this one. It was molded in the shape of a leaf, with high-quality fresh wasabi grated on top in the center. It had a fragrant aroma, a pleasant grainy texture, and it was enjoyable to wrap it in nori with wasabi and salt, and then dip it in soy sauce provided on the side. It was also delicious when paired with the remaining "Spicy Chicken." I received two types of sake, with "Niwano Uguisu" from Fukuoka. It had a slightly acidic depth of flavor that paired well with all the dishes. For the soba, I ordered the basic "Seiro" style. Here, they start with low-temperature-stored whole buckwheat grains, grind only the portion to be used that day in a stone mill, and they also pay attention to the water used for kneading, following the traditional methods of the bamboo grove. The soba that arrived was neatly aligned, with a fine texture and even small stars visible. When I brought my nose close, it had a fragrant smell, and the cooking was precise, resulting in a crispy texture, smooth mouthfeel, and a refreshing throat sensation, showing excellent workmanship. The dipping sauce seemed to have changed itself or was differentiated in taste as "Inaka," but it tasted sweeter than before. However, it was not bad at all, and the balance between the dipping sauce and the broth was well-maintained.