さんどがさ
On June 28, 2023 (Wednesday) for dinner, I had work in Shinjuku in the afternoon and decided to have dinner there as well. I visited a restaurant that I had bookmarked previously. It is located at the entrance of Kabukicho, on the left side of the Suzuya Building on the 5th floor. Established in 1954, this restaurant is famous for its tonkatsu rice bowl, so I decided to give it a try. I sat by the window and ordered the Suzuya specialty tonkatsu rice bowl in a regular size (1680 yen), with the sauce being the classic soy flavor and topped with a hot spring egg (180 yen). The dish arrived with tonkatsu on an iron plate, topped with cabbage sautéed in soy sauce, and a hot spring egg on top. It was a bit confusing, but I followed the instructions and tried it as it was served. The crispy texture of the tonkatsu was already lost due to the soy sauce, and the combination of sautéed cabbage and hot spring egg added to the chaos. However, this was just the beginning. I ate about half of the tonkatsu, called the staff over, got some tea, poured it over the rice with tonkatsu, and turned it into a rice bowl. The tonkatsu became soggy and not very appetizing. The rice was enjoyable, but I still believe that the crispy texture of tonkatsu is essential. The total bill came to 1860 yen. While eating, I noticed the cover of the menu, which featured Shiko Munakata. Looking around the restaurant, I saw two paintings of Munakata on the wall. The menu explained that the founders of Suzuya had a close relationship with Munakata and other artists. Moreover, the founders were originally fond of folk crafts, and artists like Munakata, Soetsu Yanagi, and Bernard Leach used to visit the restaurant. It was indeed an impressive place. Another remarkable aspect of the restaurant was the view from the window seat, overlooking the Kabukicho entrance intersection. You could see the main entrance intersection of Kabukicho on the left and the elevated tracks of the Yamanote Line and Chuo Line on the right, with Yasukuni Street passing underneath. This reminded me of a story shared by Ota of the comedy duo "Bakusho Mondai." He mentioned feeling suffocated and uncomfortable in New York City with its grid-like streets but felt a sense of freedom upon returning to Tokyo and passing through the large gate of Shinjuku by car. He believed that the paths created by people's footsteps are the true roads, unlike the organized grid-like streets. I resonated with his sentiment. Shinjuku was hot today, with Tokyo's highest temperature reaching 32.3°C.