やっぱりモツが好き
Menu de AYU (33,000 yen, including tax)
Duration: Approximately 4 hours
Chef Yasuo Igarashi (born in 1955) shows off his skills at this restaurant (3.81). He honed his skills in the Normandy region of France after moving there in 1980, and the restaurant's name, Manoir D'Astin, is the same as the restaurant where he worked for 4 years in Normandy. The chef's specialty is "Carrot Mousse and Consommé Jelly with Sea Urchin," which he created in 1989 and was considered cutting-edge at the time. He excels in handling ingredients such as soft-shelled turtle, eel, game meat, and offal, and this visit was specifically for a special course featuring various dishes made with Ayu (sweetfish).
The menu included three types of natural Ayu from Nagara River (Gifu Prefecture), Takatsu River (Shimane Prefecture), and Kotsukawa River (Kagoshima Prefecture), as well as semi-natural Ayu from Wakayama Prefecture (Ayufarm-raised in an environment close to the natural habitat). A total of four varieties of Ayu were served in nine French-style dishes, showcasing the chef's masterful skill. While restaurants like Le Fevre Sons (4.53) and Restaurant Ootsu (4.15) are highly praised for their simple preparations of Ayu from Wakayama and Nagara River respectively, the classical approach based on traditional techniques at this restaurant was also very intriguing.
I enjoyed the following glass wines selected by the beautiful sommelier to pair with the dishes:
- Cuvée Sante Anne Brut [N.V.] Chartogne-Taillet Champagne (Glass 2,420 yen)
- Marcel Servin Chablis Private 2019 Cat Label Burgundy, France (Glass 1,650 yen)
- Domaine Riefle Gewurztraminer Tradition 2019 Alsace, France (Glass 1,650 yen)
- Domaine Rene Leclerc Bourgogne Rouge 2016 Burgundy, France (Glass 1,650 yen)
Menu de AYU (33,000 yen)
01. Venison Blood Boudin Noir with Apple Jam
02. Bread
03. Natural Ayu from Takatsu River, Shimane with Fleur de Sel, Ayu Liver, and Anchovy Sauce
04. Natural Ayu from Nagara River, Gifu Confit with Summer Vegetable Eclair
05. Semi-Natural Ayu from Wakayama, Conger Eel, and Anago Consommé Jelly with Velouté
06. Natural Ayu from Kotsukawa River, Kagoshima, and Chinese Matsutake Poirot
07. Natural Ayu from Nagara River, Gifu, Botan Shrimp, Conger Eel, Clams, and Winter Melon Braise
08. Natural Ayu from Kotsukawa River, Kagoshima, Coulibiac-style Ayu Cream Sauce
09. Natural Ayu from Nagara River, Gifu, Abalone, Bitter Melon Ratatouille, French Escargot Red Wine Sauce
10. Dried Sea Cucumber from Awaji and Natural Ayu from Nagara River, Gifu Casserole
11. Natural Ayu from Nagara River, Gifu in Tomato Sauce Linguine
12. Fig Soup, Jelly, Sorbet
13. Peach Compote, Granite, Crème d'Anjou
14. Petit Fours
15. After-dinner drink
Here are my brief thoughts on the dishes I tried, with individual ratings in brackets (prices include tax):
- Venison Blood Boudin Noir with Apple Jam: Not related to Ayu, but a classic amuse-bouche from the restaurant. A bite-sized Boudin Noir with a refreshing apple jam. [3.3]
- Bread: Breads from Bigo's bakery (different types were served for refills) with butter. [3.5]
- Natural Ayu from Takatsu River, Shimane with Fleur de Sel, Ayu Liver, and Anchovy Sauce: A pleasant surprise to see Ayu served as sashimi. Enjoyed it simply with Fleur de Sel salt, then with a brown liver sauce, enhancing the flavors. The quality of Ayu from Takatsu River far surpassed the one I had at Aladdin (3.78). The sauce with Ayu liver and anchovy added an exceptional taste. [4.3]