蓼喰人
I brought my follower, who always accompanies me for a drink at the soba restaurant, to this soba restaurant located behind Asakusa Kannon. I have been visiting this place occasionally for about 20 years, but due to the impact of the coronavirus pandemic, I had not visited for over 5 years. The owner, who is getting older, has gradually reduced the operating days and hours, and currently operates on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights by reservation only. The location is on the north side of Imado Street, in an area known as "Kannon-ura," where remnants of the geisha district can still be felt in the air. When we arrived a little before the scheduled time, we were greeted by a middle-aged male staff member, and I could hear the owner's voice from the back. However, I was puzzled by the absence of the usual proprietress, who seemed to be unwell. Currently, only the raised tatami seating on the right side is used, and there was already a single female customer seated. A table for four was prepared for us in the front. Reservations are mainly for courses, and I had requested the basic "seiro soba course" with several additional dishes in advance. We were first asked about our drinks, so I ordered a beer (large bottle of Ebisu) and we started with a toast. The first dish in the course was "soba yaki miso," where the soba grains are coated on a ladle and grilled to create a charred flavor, following the traditional Ichizaan style. It had a white miso base as usual, and the crunchy texture of the roasted soba grains was delightful. Next, the "soba gaki" was served. The unique Gyohei pot used here carefully kneads the coarsely ground soba flour from a stone mill. The nutty aroma tickled the nose, and the chewy texture was wonderful. The natural sweetness of the soba was evident, and although soy sauce was provided, I mostly enjoyed it as it was. The three additional dishes we had ordered came next. The "tatami iwashi" was served in a small box with charcoal, similar to roasted seaweed. The clever arrangement to maintain a crispy texture, typical of an Edo-style soba restaurant, was impressive. The quality of the ingredients was also evident, making it a suitable accompaniment for sake. The "tamagoyaki" was served hot on two separate plates. It was cooked by mixing it with soba broth and then grilling it using a traditional method. With grated radish on the side, enjoying it piping hot was pure bliss. The "tempura assorted platter" was different from the usual style and featured a variety of mountain vegetables in a large basket. The assortment included "mizu no ha to kuki, shukon soba no ha, shungiku, shishito, kabocha, nasu." Mizu no ha was not commonly used, but the soft young leaves were lightly fried in a thin batter. The stems were cut into 5 cm lengths, wrapped in seaweed, and each had a strong flavor with a satisfying crunch. The rare shukon soba leaves had an interesting texture. Each item highlighted its unique flavor, and we enjoyed them with both salt and tempura dipping sauce. The sake menu listed many brands to choose from. I left the selection to my follower, who is an expert in that field. The sake was served in a sake vessel with a stylish print reminiscent of lacquerware, and the sake cups were changed for each serving. We ordered two types of "Yamamoto," two types of "Abe Kan," and also "Kankichi" (the forgotten brand was kindly reminded by my companion, MF-san), but all of them went down smoothly as we enjoyed the delicious food. The main soba dish was "stone mill ground seiro soba," with a slightly coarse grind that allowed the stars to be seen, made from a blend of soba from various regions. When I brought a few strands close to my nose, the aroma was strong, and when I slurped it, the umami flavor was clearly felt. The mixture of coarse and fine flour seemed to be well balanced, resulting in a firm chewy texture with a smooth surface and a decent throat sensation. The broth was a superb blend of deep umami and dashi, following tradition. It was served in a sake pitcher, and with each dish, the sake cups were changed.