まめぞう
There are two main types of station stores in JR stations. One is the JR-affiliated stores, now unified under JR East Japan Cross Station Co., Ltd. The other type dates back to the era of Japanese National Railways (JNR), where local businesses were authorized by JNR to operate within station premises, starting with station bento boxes and expanding to include soba noodles, cafes, catering services, and more. These station businesses have since evolved into two main categories: those that have downsized or been absorbed by JR due to changing times, and those that have developed into separate entities like Sakuradori and Ogino-ya. "Sotei," established in August 1949, is operated by Japan Travel Service Co., Ltd. (https://jt-s.net/). Originally commissioned by the Railway Koseikai, it started operating at JNR Odawara Station, Atami Station, and Numazu Station. From June 1959, it switched to direct contracts with various JNR railway administration bureaus, expanding its offerings to include soba, udon, kishimen, ramen, cafes, and standing bars. The famous kishimen shop on the Shinkansen and conventional line platforms at Nagoya Station has been operated by the company since 1961. Currently, it operates at various JR stations, including Nagoya, Chikusa, Ikebukuro, Ueno, Ogikubo, Kokubunji, Noborito, Atami, Mishima, and Toyohashi. Managing a business solely at JR stations or their vicinity is quite an achievement. The Ikebukuro branch of Sotei also specializes in kishimen, leveraging its location at the Shinkansen platform of Nagoya Station. However, navigating the vast terminal of Ikebukuro Station, which serves 4 companies and 8 lines, is like a labyrinth. Even within JR Ikebukuro Station, there are already 48 stores. In the noodle business alone, there are 7 competitors, including IKE Noodle Kitchen, Irori-an Kiraku, Eki Soba Oedo Soba, Sanuki Udon Merikenya IKE Noodle Kitchen, Sobaichi IKE Noodle Kitchen, T's Tantan, and TOKYO Tonkotsu BASE MADE by Ippudo. Amidst this competition, Sotei stands out, but finding it can be a challenge. After a thorough search, it was finally located between the staircases of platforms 1/2 and 3/4, next to the women's restroom. With no financial power like JR East Japan, Sotei maintains an old-fashioned standing-eating style. There are partitions for infection control, providing seating for 7 people. Purchasing a ticket for "Tokyo Kishimen" (410 yen) from the vending machine outside, the noodles are cooked in a tebo and served within 2 minutes. The flat noodles are topped with fried tofu, green onions, and bonito flakes, served in a slightly thicker soy sauce-based broth typical of the Kanto region. Slurping the flat noodles, it's a satisfying kishimen experience. It seems like the hangover from the previous night's drinking has finally worn off. After finishing the meal, the empty bowl and plastic cup are placed on a tray, wiped clean, and the staff thanks you for dining.