蓼喰人
After a concert at "Kioi Hall," I decided to make a reservation at this soba restaurant that I haven't visited in a long time, as "manbo" was also lifted. The restaurant's opening hours are from early evening until late at night, and I was worried about how they were coping with the impact of the pandemic. The last time I visited was six years ago, also after a concert at Kioi Hall, and I remember that even late at night, the place was bustling with many customers. Remembering that, I made a reservation for 10 p.m. a few days ago and headed there alone after the concert ended. I turned right from Shinjuku Street onto the main street of Araki-cho, known as "Sharikimon Street," and then turned into a narrow alley before "Chawanbu" after "Kitchen Taka." The restaurant had a quiet and unassuming appearance. When I opened the sliding door, there were no customers, but I heard a voice saying "Welcome" from inside the counter. It seemed like the owner was running the place alone now, as there was no young assistant like before. I was led to a seat in the middle of the counter, which felt a bit awkward since I was the only customer. When asked about my drink preference, I requested a draft beer, which was served in a footed glass. I had pre-booked the "omakase course" directly with the restaurant after making an online reservation, mentioning my dislikes and opting for something not too heavy since it was late at night. A tray with small round dishes was placed on the table, and each dish was served one by one on top of the dishes, with the owner explaining each dish as it was presented. The following are the details of the dishes served:
- "Assorted Appetizers": This included various delicacies such as homemade karasumi miso, duck loin, bay scallops, simmered shishamo with sansho pepper, spicy cod roe, sweet white asparagus, fish cake, nanohana (rapeseed blossoms). Each dish was meticulously prepared, and it was a joy to savor each one. The simmered shishamo, well-seasoned cod roe, and slightly sweet tamagoyaki (Japanese omelette) were particularly memorable.
- "Aburi (seared) Hiragai and Mirugai (geoduck clam), Shiitake Mushroom": The hiragai from Kyushu and mirugai from the Seto Inland Sea were seared to perfection, offering a satisfying texture and rich umami. The thick shiitake mushroom was also grilled and had a deep flavor. The dish was accompanied by a refreshing vinegar jelly that complemented the flavors well. It was served with urui (butterbur) and cherry tomatoes that were carefully selected.
- "Seared Kinmedai (Golden Eye Snapper) Sashimi": The kinmedai was freshly caught and landed on the same day in Izu, known as "day-return kinmedai," which was noticeably fresher than usual. The skin was lightly seared before being thinly sliced, served with high-quality grated wasabi and soy sauce from Kochi. The dish also included a paste made from the raw liver of the kinmedai and a small amount of anglerfish liver, offering a unique and exquisite taste.
- "Engawa (fluke fin) of Hirame (flounder)": The owner specially served the best engawa of the day, which was rich in flavor and had a satisfying texture. It was enjoyed with ponzu sauce and grated daikon.
- "Takenoko (bamboo shoot) Soup": The bamboo shoot was carefully prepared, sliced to a suitable thickness to maintain a pleasant texture, and served with fresh bamboo sprouts that retained a crisp texture. The dashi broth made from kombu and bonito was clear yet flavorful, cleansing the body and mind.
- "Delicacies Two Ways": The "Kasu-zuke (kasu-marinated) Cream Cheese" had a creamy texture and rich umami. The "Mizu-umi (water cloud) and Shoga (ginger) Salad" was not your typical vinegar dish, as each ingredient's texture and flavor were allowed to shine.
The review continues with more details about the dishes and the overall dining experience.