蓼喰人
After stopping by "Kosuge" in Meguro the day before, I saw the familiar sign of "Tonki" on my way back to the station. The next day at noon, I headed to this restaurant that offers the same quality as the original. While the establishment in Meguro was founded in 1939 before the war, it seems that this place also has a history of over 30 years since its opening. The original is only open at night, but this one is open for lunch as well, and when I arrived 2 minutes before the opening time of 11:45, there were already 6 people in line, with 2-3 more joining after me. As the curtain was raised at the scheduled time, I was guided inside. While the original is known for its counter that can seat over 30 people in a C-shape, this place has an L-shaped counter surrounded by about 13 chairs. The cleanliness and atmosphere of this place, which you wouldn't expect from a fried food restaurant, are similar to the original. While the original has many craftsmen and staff bustling around, here there is the owner who focuses on frying, a female owner who assists with plating, and a female staff member in charge of customer service, with another staff member in the back. I chose a seat in front where I could see the work being done. The menu is simple, with three set meals of loin cutlet, fillet cutlet, and skewered cutlet, drinks, and simple side dishes that can be ordered individually. During lunchtime, most people order one of the three set meals, and I ordered the "Loin Cutlet Set" with a "Medium Bottle of Beer". The "Kirin Lager" that was brought first came with "Butter Peanuts" as a complimentary appetizer in a small dish. While nibbling on these, I enjoyed waiting for the cutlet to be ready with a tilted glass of beer. By the way, the medium bottle of beer is 650 yen, and the complimentary appetizer is a nice touch. The unique feature here is the style of frying with lard 100%, but there are also unique features in the batter and how it is applied. After dipping in a mixture of strong flour, regular flour, and beaten eggs three times, the cutlet is coated with fine breadcrumbs and then put into the oil. The temperature is around 160°C, a slightly lower medium temperature, and it takes about 15 minutes to cook. As a result, the batter is more crispy than crunchy, with a crispy finish. Recently, there has been a trend for tonkatsu fried at around 100°C for a long time to achieve a white finish, similar to confit. There used to be a tonkatsu restaurant in Ueno that used this method, but the oil tends to be greasy and the lack of browning makes it less appetizing. I visited popular shops recently, but had a similar impression, where the oiliness and lack of browning in the white finish made it less appealing. Even with tempura, I prefer the Edo-style method of frying in sesame oil to achieve a golden brown finish, rather than the Kansai-style white finish. Many people, like me, prefer the golden brown finish and crispy texture of tonkatsu, with "Tonki" being a representative of that style. Of course, if regular meat is fried at this temperature for a long time, it loses its juiciness and becomes dry, but here, the ingredients are carefully selected. While thinking about this, I observed the situation inside the counter, where the female owner was preparing plates of vegetables such as cabbage for each person. When the timing was right to take them out of the oil, the owner called out to the back, and a bowl of miso soup and a bowl of rice were served, along with a small dish of pickles. Next, the owner placed the cutlet, which had been sliced into bite-sized pieces on a plate, and the female owner added some ground mustard. I tried the ground mustard on its own, and it had a strong flavor while being well cooked. I don't particularly like Worcestershire sauce-based flavors, so I tried adding soy sauce next, which enhanced the richness of the fat. The cabbage, generously served, was neatly arranged. It seemed to be machine-cut, not too thin, not overly soaked in water, and well drained, so the cabbage's natural flavor was preserved without any bitterness. Adding soy sauce to the cabbage brought out its sweetness, and I continued eating in this style for a while. Tonkatsu ===========